Parsley in a greenhouse in winter - what conditions need to be created, and how to grow parsley correctly

 Parsley in a greenhouse in winter - what conditions need to be created, and how to grow parsley correctly

Growing parsley in a greenhouse is convenient because, even during the winter months, you get enough fresh herbs to prepare a variety of dishes and to heal from various diseases. There is more space in the greenhouse than on the windowsills, which are usually crammed with all kinds of indoor plants, and parsley is never superfluous - one has only to remember the beneficial properties of its leaves and root crops.

Requirements of parsley for soil, lighting and other conditions

Growing parsley in a greenhouse is convenient because, even during the winter months, you get enough fresh herbs to prepare a variety of dishes and to heal from various diseases. There is more space in the greenhouse than on the windowsills, which are usually crammed with all kinds of indoor plants, and parsley is never superfluous - one has only to remember the beneficial properties of its leaves and root crops.

Greens are much easier to grow than the same cucumbers or tomatoes, therefore, in the greenhouses of domestic gardeners, you can often find green onions, parsley, celery, dill, varieties of lettuce and other crops that are distinguished by simple care, rapid growth and benefits for the body. Growing parsley in a greenhouse in winter does not require financial costs and is not particularly troublesome, which fully justifies the effort invested. Especially when you count how much money can be spent over the winter to buy ready-made greens in a store or in the market.

Growing parsley in a greenhouse in winter does not require financial costs

Frost-resistant parsley feels quite normal in winter, and is even capable of tolerating short-term frosts. Nevertheless, it is not recommended to plant this unpretentious crop earlier than the end of January in heated film tunnels and in greenhouses, and if the greenhouse is not heated at all, growing parsley in winter is undesirable. Under favorable conditions, parsley is kept in an unheated greenhouse until December.

Video about growing fresh herbs

During the growth of green mass, parsley needs a temperature within +12 degrees. When the air warms up to +20 degrees and above, the plant becomes uncomfortable, the leaves fade. Therefore, it is undesirable to place parsley on a windowsill well-lit by the sun - it will be too hot.

If you are interested in how to grow parsley in the lush and tasty winter, try to create suitable conditions for it:

  • although the need for sunlight in parsley is moderate, artificial lighting should be provided, because in winter the daylight hours are shortened, and a lot of light is needed for the active growth of green mass;
  • watering the plants is required only as the soil dries up, best of all after cutting the greens;
  • comfortable air humidity for parsley - at least 75%;
  • do not allow temperature changes;
  • Ventilate the greenhouse periodically to maintain optimal air temperature and humidity.

Parsley has no special soil requirements; moderately fertilized soils are ideal.

Parsley has no special requirements for the soil; moderately fertilized soils, light loamy or sod-podzolic, would be ideal. In heavy, dense soil, parsley roots can grow gnarled and ugly, like carrots.

Technology for growing parsley in a greenhouse

In most cases, gardeners choose to root parsley on greens instead of sowing seeds, as the first option turns out to be the most economical and efficient way to grow parsley in a greenhouse. You can use the roots of any varieties of parsley, the optimal root thickness is about 5 mm, and the length is up to 8 cm, too long roots are more convenient to cut.

All that is required of you when growing parsley in a greenhouse is to maintain the required temperature and humidity.

Pre-harvested parsley roots with cut tops are kept at a temperature of +2 degrees in the sand. Meanwhile, furrows are cut in the ground at a distance of about 15 cm from each other. The furrows are watered with water and the roots are placed in them at an angle of 45 degrees, keeping the distance between the plants at least 5 cm. The planted roots are covered with earth so that the neck and head remain above the surface. The soil is slightly compacted and intensively watered with water. The roots take root best of all at temperatures within +15 degrees. After a month, the leaves have reached a height of 25 cm, and you can cut the first portion of the greenery.

In the event that you decide to grow parsley from seeds in a greenhouse, it is better to keep the planting material for five days in double-rolled gauze at room temperature until the first sprouts appear. Then, for ten days, the germinated seeds are kept at a temperature of +1 degrees. Thanks to this treatment, you will get fresh parsley about three times faster, and the plants will be stronger.

Video about growing greens in a greenhouse

There is no difficulty in further growing parsley from seeds: plant the prepared seeds in the ground at intervals of five centimeters, spill well immediately after planting in the ground and leave the parsley to grow. Thin the appeared seedlings, leaving the strongest plants.

All that is required of you when growing parsley in a greenhouse is to maintain the required temperature and humidity, provide the plants with additional lighting, water when the soil dries up and remove weeds. If these conditions are met, you will constantly have fresh, vitamin parsley for the winter, grown with your own hands in greenhouse conditions.

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Features of growing parsley in a greenhouse for sale

Growing parsley in a greenhouse can be a lucrative business. Greens are in demand on the market all year round. In spring, autumn and winter, prices for it soar 2-3 times.

Parsley ranks second in popularity among greens, yielding first place to onions. She is loved for its pleasant spicy aroma, taste and aesthetic appearance. Parsley is not only a set of essential vitamins, micro- and macroelements, but also a decoration of any dish on the table.


Growing dill for sale

Dill is bought all year round. Cut off shoots up to 10 cm high. Dill is consumed fresh, dried or salted. It does not lose its properties when frozen. The seeds are used in folk medicine. Adult plants with mature seeds are placed in jars when vegetables are salted.

Features of growing dill:

  • Dill is sown on fertile moist soils. On dry soil, it will also grow, but in this case, the stem will form faster, and the plants will be unsuitable for sale.
  • Seeds must be processed before planting. For this, bubbling is carried out. It consists in treating the seeds in water constantly saturated with oxygen. Water temperature 20 ° С, procedure time up to 20 hours.
  • If there is no device for bubbling, the seeds are soaked in water for 3 days, changing it every 6 hours.
  • Sow the seeds into moist soil immediately after treatment. The depth of the grooves is up to 2 cm.
  • Dill grows and develops best at temperatures from 15 to 20 ° C. But he easily tolerates a drop in temperature to minimum positive values. The delicate leaves of dill do not tolerate frost and die.
  • The plant is light-loving. If natural lighting is not enough, you need to supplement it with phytolamps. Dill does not require special feeding. But it responds well to nitrogen fertilization. Presowing soil treatment with mineral fertilizers consists in the introduction of superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium chloride. Care consists in watering during a dry period, removing weeds, loosening row spacings.

Harvesting is carried out one month after sowing. Cut off individual large plants or remove the entire area at once. If their height has reached 15 cm, the entire crop is removed, otherwise the remaining plants will throw away their umbrellas and lose their presentation.

There are many varieties of dill. They are distinguished by the ripening period, the richness of the color of the greenery, the presence of a waxy coating and aroma. It is more expedient to grow early varieties for sale. They ripen 10 days earlier than the late ones, and this matters for business. Early varieties have less lush greenery. They need to be removed in time, otherwise they will form a stem and discard the umbrella.

Early varieties are sown in greenhouses or in open areas in early spring. Some of the plants are left to collect seeds. They do not lose their varietal properties, therefore they are suitable for sowing.
Late varieties have more leaves, they can be harvested longer. Late dill is sown in and June. Harvest until August.

  • Tetra
  • Kibray

In addition to varieties growing in one stem, bush dill is grown. Its lateral shoots grow in the leaf axils. The stem forms more slowly, which extends the harvest time to one and a half months. More greenery can be harvested from a single plant, which looks like a bush, than from the usual late varieties. Used in southern areas. Popular varieties:

  • Gourmet
  • Russian size
  • Firework

When growing bush dill, you need to provide space for each bush to develop. The row spacing is about 30 m, the spacing in a row is 15 cm. Sowing dill again (up to 3 times per season) or in new areas, you can provide a green conveyor.

Dill is sown in a heated greenhouse in early March, unheated in early April. Use line or solid sowing. 15 g of seeds are sown per square meter of area. In summer, the greenhouses can be used for growing cucumbers. Then sow the dill again in mid-July for harvest in the fall. You can use for growing dill in the second half of summer, the areas vacated after collecting garlic, onions, early varieties of potatoes.


Dill and parsley yield

Parsley and dill grow very fast... The first harvest of dill can be removed 2 months after planting. How much parsley grows in a greenhouse? Parsley sprouts earlier than dill, after 1.5 months. The dill is harvested along with the roots, the parsley is sheared to form peduncles.

Cutting begins when young plants reach a length of 25 cm. The yield of dill from 1 sq. M in a greenhouse, with proper care, is at least 2.5 kg per season. The yield of parsley in a greenhouse is roughly similar to that of dill. Speed ​​up the distillation of parsley use of rhizomes will help... This method of growing allows you to take the first crop 1 month after planting in the greenhouse.


Table of plantings in the greenhouse and soil - auspicious days to sow, plant

For the convenience of numerous summer residents, primarily gardeners, gardeners and florists, we offer a table of the sowing and planting lunar calendar for all agricultural crops (main), which they will probably grow in the new summer season on their plots (in the greenhouse), with favorable days sowing and planting next year, any of the coming months of spring, summer, autumn and even winter.


Growing plants in a greenhouse

Hello dear friends!

Nowadays, almost every self-respecting owner of a backyard farm keeps not only a vegetable garden, but also (even a small) greenhouse or other protected ground structure. It is difficult to do without them, especially in regions with a harsh climate. They allow not only to extend the growing season of vegetables and other crops, saving them from early spring and autumn frosts, but also to grow the same cucumber, tomato, pepper, green and spicy crops, radishes, etc. even in winter.

Many also grow strawberries and flowers in greenhouses. And not only for yourself, but also for sale. Let's talk more about growing plants in a greenhouse and the features of this type of agricultural technology.

Greenhouse and greenhouse structures are usually called covered ground, although recently a small amendment has been made to this term: “protected ground”. However, this term does not reflect the essence of the conditions created in greenhouses, greenhouses and greenhouses. Is the soil in them so protected? Is the soil (or rather the substrate) on which vegetables and other plants are grown here, is it really insulated from the effects of unfavorable environmental conditions by glass or film? This allows you to create an artificial (often increased) temperature regime, regulate soil moisture and the duration of daylight hours. But do glass and film protect greenhouse plants from pests and diseases?

Unfortunately, the question cannot be answered in the affirmative. And that's why. Do we not meet in greenhouses and hotbeds the same aphids, ticks, whiteflies, various caterpillars and beetles as in the open air? Do not bears, rodents and other pests get there? And where do fungal and bacterial diseases appear on plants under the roof?

All pests and pathogens enter the greenhouse from the outside: they fly in from their own or a neighbor's vegetable garden or garden, are brought in with planting material purchased on the side. Based on this, we can state that, although the soil in the greenhouse is closed, it is not at all protected.

Winter they do not care

Country greenhouses differ from industrial ones in that they are smaller in size, and for the winter remain without heat and light, and freeze in the same way as a garden with a garden in the open air. This creates certain advantages, because in large greenhouses, harmful creatures feel great and reproduce all year round, because there is no real winter there. In unheated structures made of film and glass, with the onset of frost, all life freezes. And it seems that all living things have died there, and if appropriate preventive measures are taken with the arrival of spring, none of the pests will settle on the plants planted there.

But that's in theory. In practice, we know that this is not the case. There is no need to rely solely on winter frosts as an effective exterminating prophylactic agent. Yes, in the good old days they fought cockroaches like that, freezing them out of houses and apartments. But how to deal with such dangerous pests as greenhouse whitefly, western flower thrips, scale insects, scale insects, etc.? Yes, during the winter they can die, and if they reappear in the spring, then we have not created a reliable quarantine barrier for the newcomers. Simply, they missed them.

In early spring, all gardeners buy vegetable and flower seedlings. Where is she from? It is clear that from private and industrial greenhouses and greenhouses, in which the heat was not turned off. And, therefore, the above-mentioned "heat lovers", including overseas ones, have survived.

But still, the bulk of the pests in the greenhouse are local aborigines, for whom winter is a common thing. They have perfectly adapted to it over the years. To make sure of this, take a piece of frozen soil in the greenhouse in winter, place it in a small container, carefully cover it with gauze or a piece of lutrasil and put it in a secluded warm place. In a day, having carefully removed the cover, you will certainly find living creatures at the bottom of the vessel and on its walls. There will be worms, and springtails, and larvae of small flies, and spiders, and ticks, and much more. There will also be a huge number of nematodes, fungal spores, putrefactive and pathogenic bacteria.

By leaps and bounds

With the arrival of spring, all these creatures will instantly come to life and the first thing they think about, of course, is their daily food. For them, these are the plants we grow. They will immediately begin to populate them, infect them, feed on them and multiply quickly.

And this is just one group of living creatures that many owners will certainly encounter indoors. This also includes a bear, wireworms, caterpillars, scoops, wood lice, earwigs, sciaris, slugs.

The second group will consist of those who will enter the closed ground during the growing season outside on their own or, again, with our help. In the summertime, greenhouses are actually open ground. No one keeps the greenhouse permanently closed in the summer, because the heat can destroy the plants located there. Therefore, when the temperature rises, the greenhouse and greenhouse are opened for ventilation. Together with the fresh cool air, without wishing it, we ourselves open the way here to all the harmful inhabitants of our garden and vegetable garden. A wide variety of local pests immediately settle on greenhouse plants: ticks, aphids, thrips, whiteflies, leafhoppers, leaf beetles and other parasites.

And in the evening, the bear dug in and entered the greenhouse, then a scoop butterfly and several mining flies flew in, and the wind brought winged aphids and cucumber gnats here. But we, on our clothes, brought inside a spider mite, which imperceptibly stuck to it when we examined roses in the garden. On the garden shears were scabbards brought in from the currant, etc.

What to do in such a case, how to protect greenhouse plants?

First of all, we must remember about such a concept as "crop rotation". As in the vegetable garden, the crops grown there should also be swapped in the greenhouse. But the greenhouse is small in size, and it is much more difficult to do this, therefore, tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers are often grown in the same place for several years in a row. At the same time, harmful organisms accumulate in the soil. And now we can no longer harvest a good harvest of tomatoes here: they are all affected by late blight. Gall nematodes, root and root rot appear on cucumbers. And no chemical means can cope with the invasion of uninvited aliens.

Apply wisely

Where is the exit? How to deal with them if the soil is saturated with pathogens

If we are talking about a summer greenhouse, then it needs to be moved to another place. In a capital structure or glass conservatory, all soil should be replaced with at least a shovel bayonet (if more, even better). Of course, you will have to work hard, but you can't do without it.

With some pests in the greenhouse, it will be possible to cope with the biological method: using beneficial insects and mites. They can be purchased at the biolaboratory or be smart yourself. One of our readers said that one summer he collected ladybugs that had incredibly multiplied in that season in a field on daisies and released them into a greenhouse (see article "The benefits of a ladybug"). A few days later, they destroyed all the aphids there.

With the mass reproduction of spider mites, whiteflies, scoops, you still have to resort to chemistry, but you need to use pesticides in the greenhouse very carefully - only during the allowed period of plant growth, before the fruits ripen. To suppress fungi and other infections, the soil can be treated with fungicides. Fitosporin-M (2 g per 10 l of water), planriz (10 ml per 10 l of water) are suitable for this.

At the same time, one must not forget about safety precautions, because in a closed space of a greenhouse or greenhouse, even small doses of the drug can lead to poisoning not only of pests, but also of the one who fought with them.

By pursuing growing plants in a greenhouse and by competently using various techniques and methods of combating pests, we can fully protect our greenhouse crops from them and get the expected harvest.


Watch the video: 4 Reasons All My Seedlings Died