Onions are one of the first plants that humans began to grow. It is about four thousand years old from the moment of domestication and the beginning of cultivation.
No cuisine in the world can be imagined without this vegetable, because most dishes without its use seem bland and tasteless. There are quite a few varieties of onions, and each has found its fans.
Each gardener has his own secrets for good ripening of onions in the garden, but it is most important to adhere to the correct agricultural technology to get a large harvest, whether it be planting in a comb or from seeds.
Basic requirements for growing onions from sets
Not the most picky plant is considered cold-resistant, grows well at a temperature of twelve to sixteen degrees Celsius, seeds germinate even at five degrees in the cold season. Spicy varieties tolerate frost better, sweet varieties can die in the open field at a few degrees of frost.
Onion responds well to watering in the first stages of growth, in the future it needs dry soil in order to mature better. He needs more sunlight. Despite their low weight, onions require special attention to soil composition. The soil in the bed should be sufficiently loose and nutritious.
Onions should not be planted where groundwater is close to the ground.
Weeding the beds must be carried out regularly, since the culture does not tolerate the neighborhood with weeds.
The correct solution would be to organize the onion beds and plant the vegetable in the places where they grew before cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes or potatoes... These are the vegetables for which organic matter is added to the soil.
It is not recommended to plant onions in the place where they were grown last year. It is best if you return to this site in five years.
The increased acidity of the soil is harmful to the plant, since it absorbs nutrients worse, it can be affected by downy mildew.
Before planting onions does not tolerate liming of the soil composition, it is recommended to use wood ash.
How to grow large, good outdoor bulbs
One of five options is most often used - seedlings, seeds, seedlings, vegetative method, Chinese.
The Chinese way - how to plant on the technology in the combs
This option can help increase productivity... The main feature is the planting of onions on the ridges, and not in the beds themselves. The heads grown in this way are distinguished by their flattened shapes and large sizes. The tops of the vegetable are perfectly illuminated by sunlight, warm up, from this the onion receives good protection from the effects of rot.
It should be added that it is better to loosen and water such beds, remove weeds from them.
You can sow at an air temperature equal to 5 degrees... The planting material must be sorted out, smaller bulbs are allowed to be planted as the soil warms up. The larger ones should be held by May. Such a measure will give you the opportunity to harvest at the same time.
After the bulkhead, the sets are warmed up a couple of weeks before planting. To do this, it is placed in a box and placed near the battery.
It is imperative that each bulb is carefully the tail is cut off, excess scales are removed... If you have damaged the growth neck, you can put the material aside. It is no longer suitable for landing.
One day before planting, the material is soaked in warm water to give an impetus to the formation of the root system.
The soil for planting must be prepared in the fall. A spoon of superphosphate, a teaspoon of nitroammophoska, two of dolomite flour are added to each square of the site. In the spring, the bed must be dug up again, you can add a little manure, just not too fresh.
Ridges are arranged, the height of which should be about fifteen centimeters, the interval between them is up to thirty... Sevok is planted after ten centimeters to a three centimeter depth. The seeds should not be trampled; it would be more correct to lightly sprinkle them with earth.
In the first month of growth, if the weather is dry, the onions should be watered twice. But this is in the event that it rains between waterings.
You can feed it three times. Mullein is added in mid-May. June is the turn of potash, urea and phosphorus fertilizers. The third time it is necessary to fertilize at the moment when the bulbs begin to form.
Another feature of the Chinese method is that weeding the beds is necessary as the weeds grow, which happens quite rarely.
Copper sulfate is used as a protective measure against powdery mildew.
Method of planting and sowing seeds in the soil
This planting method is recommended for the northwestern regions and Belarus, when the onion is not able to fully ripen, which reduces its shelf life.
In the middle of spring, the seed is calibrated, more than large specimens... After sowing "dry" the first shoots will appear in three weeks. To accelerate the process, you can soak the seeds in potassium permanganate, and after a day sprinkle them on the fabric and leave them alone to hatch. But at the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the planting material remains sufficiently moist.
Furrows are made at a distance twenty centimeters... One gram of seeds is enough for two meters of sowing, planting depth - up to three centimeters. For convenience, you can mix the seeds with sand, sprinkle the grooves with dry soil after planting.
When to plant in the garden
Landing time depends on weather conditions... If the weather is warm in spring, then sowing can be carried out in the last days of April. Otherwise, you will have to wait until the ground warms up.
The seedlings grown in advance are transferred to the ground not earlier than mid-May.
Sevok is planted in the first May decade... Inhabitants of the northwestern regions can orient themselves when planting onions on the flowering of bird cherry.
For winter sowing, the beds are prepared in the fall. Landing is carried out in the second half of November, before frost.
Secrets of proper farming
Avoid crusting or weeds on the soil surface. For this purpose, the beds must be loosened more often to a depth of five centimeters. Weed vegetation is best removed in the initial phase of growth, when the seedlings are still reddish.
It must be remembered that the bow loves to show off. When a turnip begins to form, it is necessary open a thirdby freeing the shoulders. This technique helps the bulb to form well and fully ripen.
Harvesting and storage of turnips and feathers
As soon as new feathers have ceased to appear, and the onion has acquired a characteristic shade, it can be removed. As a rule, this falls on mid-August - early September... If you skip the harvest time, the vegetable will begin to grow again and will be of little use for storage.
The collected bulbs are washed, peeled from husks and dry feathers, the roots are cut off... For drying, it is laid out in one layer in a room that is well ventilated. After a few weeks, new golden scales appear on the bulbs. This means that the vegetable is ready for long-term storage.
As a rule, gardeners prefer growing onions with sevkom, purchasing them in special stores. It can be planted in the winter, after preparing the garden bed.
But if you adhere to all the recommendations, then in the Chinese way you can get a good harvest of this wonderful vegetable.
Tips for growing large onions
Onions are one of the first plants that humans began to grow. It is difficult to imagine most of the dishes without it. There are many varieties that differ in taste. Thanks to this, the right one is chosen for each dish. To grow large onions, you need to know the peculiarities of the culture. Every gardener has his own methods. The vegetable growing secrets that they have been using successfully for many years help to achieve results.
How to grow onions from sets
Sevok are small bulbs that grow from onion seeds ("nigella"). It is quite simple to grow onions from a set, you just need to follow a simple technology.
Onions are resistant to cold, and therefore sevok can be planted in the beds already at the end of April... By this time, the soil in the middle lane warms up to + 12 ° C, and the air temperature is at least + 5 ° C.
If suddenly the cold weather returns in April-May, then the young shoots will easily tolerate them. - they are able to withstand frosts down to -3 ° C. But for an adult onion, cold is very undesirable, since it stops growing and developing.
How to properly prepare the site
The site for onions begins to be prepared in the fall. It is carefully dug up with a shovel on a full bayonet and all weeds and roots are selected.
After that, they are introduced into the soil rotted peat or compost... But manure, contrary to popular belief, is contraindicated onions. Because of it, greens begin to grow magnificently, and the bulb itself remains underdeveloped.
Also, in the fall, they bring into the soil phosphate-potassium fertilizers (2 tablespoons of granules per square meter). Fertilizers in the fall are usually laid 3/4 of the norm, and the rest is added in the spring.
With the coming of spring the bed is loosened, nitrogen fertilizers and the rest of the phosphorus-potassium... It is better to rake beds for onions that are low, at a distance of 0.6 meters from each other.
Place for planting onions
For growing onions in the open field you need sunny and well ventilated area... The soil here should be loose, with weak or neutral acidity.
You also need to take into account those crops that were grown on this site before. Onions grow very poorly after garlic... But after cabbage or nightshades (tomato, potato), he will feel great. Various aromatic herbs such as dill or basil are also considered a good predecessor.
Legumes should never grow next to onions.: peas, beans or lentils. It gets along relatively well with other cultures. However, carrots are considered an ideal neighbor for onions: they scare away the onion fly, and the onion, in turn, will drive off the carrot fly.
Some gardeners planted on onion beds (in the aisle) calendula and marigolds... They will not only decorate the garden, but also scare off various pests from the onion. The onion bed must be periodically moved to a new place. This is usually done every 3-4 years.
Seeding preparation for planting
To get a good harvest of onions, the sets must be prepared in advance. They do it as follows:
- To begin with, the sevok is sorted out. It is necessary to select bulbs of suitable size and discard all dry, diseased and too small ones.
- To avoid fungal diseases and early formation of arrows, two weeks before planting the seedlings need to be warmed up. To do this, it is kept for 10 hours at + 40 ° C (a central heating battery is also suitable).
- The day before planting, the seedlings are soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or simply in warm water. The best results are obtained from seedlings treated with complex fertilizers and a growth stimulator.
- At the bulbs, the upper tail is cut off (but only so as not to damage the seedling). Thanks to the correct pruning, the seedlings will germinate faster.
Planting seeding in the ground
Seeding beds must be prepared in advance. To do this, shallow furrows are made on it with a row spacing of 40 centimeters. If the soil is too dry, the furrows should be watered with settled water.
Sevok is planted with an interval of about 6-8 cm. The backlog depends on the size of the bulbs, the main thing is that the top looks out a little from the ground.
Usually, the seed germinates quickly and all at once. After about 9-12 days, the first green feathers appear on the beds.
Onions do not need a lot of water for normal development. However, in the very first month, it is necessary to ensure that the soil is moist and does not dry out. Water is usually watered once a week, but if the weather is dry, then you can do it twice. After each watering, the beds should be loosened.
The first month during watering, the soil should be soaked 10-12 cm deep. As the onion grows and its root system develops, the watering depth is increased to 20-25 centimeters. In the very last month before harvesting, the onions are not watered at all. But at this time it is necessary to perform "dry watering": loosen the soil more often, gradually freeing the upper parts of the bulbs from the ground. Contrary to popular misconception, onions should never be huddled!
Top dressing onions
During the season, onions are fed three times:
- 2-3 weeks after planting. This is especially important if the feathers grow thin and colorless. For the first feeding, a solution of nitrophoska or urea is used. After this procedure, it is imperative to wash off the remaining fertilizer from the feathers. To do this, you can use a hose with a fine mesh nozzle.
- 3 weeks after the previous feeding. This time, the onions are treated with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. On a bucket of water, 20-30 grams of superphosphate and 10-15 grams of potassium salt are taken.
- The third feeding is done according to the circumstances. It uses the same ingredients as last time.
Weeding and loosening
Onions are a very unpretentious crop, but they are very sensitive to soil conditions. That is why onion beds need to be loosened often and regularly. This should be done only by hand, trying not to damage the roots, which lie at a depth of 10-30 centimeters in the onion.
Also, onions are sensitive to weeds. Foreign plants do not allow moisture to evaporate normally, which is why the roots rot on the onion and various diseases develop.
Onion diseases and other problems
Fungal diseases are considered the most dangerous for onions. These include, first of all, measles rot and powdery mildew. If we talk about pests, then thrips, onion flies and nematodes annoy the plant most of all.
Measures must be taken immediately, at the first sign of fungal diseases and pests. These include a change in the color of feathers, their wilting and twisting, the appearance of light dots and spots. It is better not to use various aggressive pesticides. It will be correct to look for bioinsecticides and biofungicides that will not harm either the plant or the person. Many of the problems associated with growing onions can be prevented in advance without waiting for serious consequences. Here are the main ones:
- Dying off of young bulbs... The most common cause of the problem is planting that is too dense, without subsequent thinning. Another reason for the dying off of the bulbs can be untimely feeding and insufficient watering.
- Yellowed feathers... The reasons are the same: too tight fit and lack of moisture. However, sometimes the feathers turn yellow due to the onion fly. Yellowed feathers lead to early ripening of the bulbs when they are still too small.
- Incomplete ripening of the bulbs... The main reason for this is the excess nitrogen in the soil. For prevention, potash fertilizers (30-40 grams per square meter) must be applied to the soil. The procedure is carried out in the middle of summer.
- Arrow formation... This happens if you purchase sets from unverified sellers. If in doubt, it is better to keep the seedlings at a temperature of 25-30 ° C for two to three weeks before planting.
Onions are harvested in August, in the second half of the month. A rainy day is not good for this: the onions will start to rot and will be poorly stored.The best thing to do is wait for some really sunny weather.
Watering is stopped a month before harvesting. The main sign that the crop can be harvested is the mass lodging of feathers. At the same time, it is better not to delay with harvesting, otherwise the onion will grow again. The bulbs are buried in and removed from the ground. If the weather is fine, they can be laid out to dry right on the garden bed: the sun will dry the onions better and kill possible infections. The onions are then dried indoors for about 7-10 days at 25-30 ° C. In the last 12 hours, you can raise the temperature to 45 ° C - this will be a good prevention of cervical rot.
On dried bulbs, the leaves are cut off and tails are left 3-4 centimeters each. For storage, only healthier and mature bulbs are selected, on which there are no spots and damage. You need to store the crop in a dry, cool room that is sufficiently well ventilated. For storage, it is better to use special nets, boxes and baskets.
Difference between winter and spring planting
Planting sevka before winter has its advantages:
- Winter onions ripen 1.5-2 months earlier than spring onions.
- The weight and size of its bulbs are larger. This is due to the frequent failure to comply with the terms of planting spring work.
- Crops before early or mid-May do not need watering.
- There is no question about the place and storage conditions of the seedlings during the winter.
There are also disadvantages. Onions grown from sets planted in winter are worse stored. There is also a high risk of freezing of some of the material, which is why the overall yield, despite the larger size of the onion heads, is lower than that of spring onions.
Preparing and processing onions before planting
Presowing treatment of seedlings is carried out with the aim of disinfecting seed material, preventing the occurrence of diseases and pest damage, and reducing shooting.
Onions are soaked and treated with solutions immediately before planting. Dry heating begins 2-3 weeks before.
What to process
Choose a treatment tool depending on the purpose: disinfection, nutrition, repelling pests. Some drugs and growth stimulants help to solve several problems at the same time.
A microbiological preparation based on hay bacillus will prevent the development of bacteriosis, rot, downy mildew.
A solution for soaking onions is prepared depending on the form of release of the drug. For dilution, use warm filtered water, and then store the solution in a dark place:
- Dilute the powder in a proportion of 10 g per 0.5 l of water.
- Prepare a concentrate from the paste in a proportion of 100 g per 0.2 l of warm water. Next, measure out 30 ml of the resulting solution and mix it with 200 ml of water.
- Liquid - 5 drops - diluted in 100 ml of water.
In any of the solutions listed, soak the sevok for 2 hours before planting.
Increases culture resistance to fungal diseases, has disinfecting properties.
Dissolve 1-3 g of potassium permanganate in 1 liter of warm water and soak the onion for 30-40 minutes. Do not rinse or dry before planting.
Salt or soda solution
Soda and salt solutions are time-tested antiseptic agents. They prevent the development of root rot and downy mildew.
For disinfection of the sevka:
- dissolve 25 g of soda in 5 liters of water, heat to + 45 ° C and soak the seeds in it for 20-30 minutes
- mix 10 g of salt and 1 liter of water heated to + 45 ° C, soak the onion for 15-20 minutes.
It is one of the most powerful antiseptics and has anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties.
Important! In high concentrations, copper sulfate is poisonous.
Dissolve 30 g of powder in 10 liters of warm water. Immerse the seed in the mixture for 2-3 hours, then dry it, and then plant it in the ground.
Wood ash will protect against rot, prevent the appearance of pathogenic microflora. In addition, the ash solution also serves as a nutrient for the bulbs.
Dissolve 250 g of wood ash in 5 liters of water and stand for an hour. Immerse the seed in it for 5-7 minutes, then dry it in the open air for 2-3 hours.
It is a popular adaptogen and growth promoter. It helps to withstand adverse weather conditions, enhances the development of roots and greenery.
Dissolve 5 drops of "Epin" in 0.5 liters of water, immerse the onion in it for 10-15 minutes, then immediately plant it in the ground.
It is not only a disinfectant, but also a nitrogen fertilizer for the plant. Use 3 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of warm water (+ 40 ° C). Immerse the onion sets in the solution for 15-20 minutes.
Tar prevents the development of fungal and bacterial diseases, repels onion flies.
Take 1 tbsp. l. birch tar and dissolve it in 1 liter of warm water. Soak the onion in this mixture for 2-3 hours, stir the solution periodically.
Kerosene is used to repel onion flies and other pests. Treat the surface of the bulbs with a solution at the rate of 1 tbsp. l. kerosene per 5 liters of water. You do not need to soak the sevok in this composition.
Other preparation methods
After purchasing the seed, immediately start preparing the onions for planting.
Sorting and drying
Examine the sevok: the husk should be dry, evenly colored. Discard bulbs with signs of rot, spots, dried out specimens.
Dry at a temperature of at least + 20 ° C for 2-3 weeks.
Warming up so the bow does not go into the arrow
Warm up the seed at the heater for 10 hours at a temperature of 35-40 ° C. This will significantly reduce the likelihood of shooting onions and the possibility of infection with powdery mildew.
Place the set in water at + 50 ° C for 15 minutes, then in cold water for the same time. Hardening will allow the onion, when planting in the ground, to better adapt to temperature extremes, and increase immunity. After the procedure, treat the onion with a growth stimulant.
Soaking helps the roots of the seeding to wake up faster, therefore, it is carried out immediately before planting the bulbs in the ground. For soaking, use a disinfectant or nutrient solution prepared with biologicals and chemicals.
Carefully cut off the dry tail of the set without touching the bulb itself. Thanks to this, seedlings will appear faster.
Cooking a plot for planting onions
It is best to prepare the soil for planting onions in the fall. We dig the earth to a depth of 15-20 cm, having previously introduced well-rotted manure or peat-manure compost.
It is not advisable to apply fresh manure, as this can cause onion diseases, and weed seeds can get into the soil with manure and it will not be so easy to get rid of them later. And the introduction of fresh manure will provoke an increased growth of the aerial part of the plant, because of which the bulbs will not be able to fully mature.
If your soil is acidic on your site, then in order to get a good harvest of onions, it is necessary to liming the soil in the fall. But here it is necessary to take into account the fact that it is extremely undesirable to simultaneously introduce manure and lime into the soil, since the nitrogen content in the fertilizer decreases.
To avoid this, it is better to add dolomite flour, ground limestone, ground chalk, wood ash to the soil instead of lime.
In the spring, we will only have to apply mineral fertilizers and it is better to apply them not all at once, but in several stages, since onions have a very negative attitude to the high concentration of mineral fertilizers.
Therefore, we apply half of the established dose when digging the earth before planting, and distribute the other half between 2-3 dressings during the growing season.
Onion-turnip from seeds in one year
Onions can be grown directly from seeds by sowing them in early spring or before winter. But not every gardener manages to do this. And the whole secret of obtaining a marketable bulb with this method lies in the correct choice of place and variety, early and thickened sowing of seeds, since this reduces the nutritional area of the plant, and it accelerates the rate of bulb formation.
But, as the people say, each stick has two ends. So here, in our short summer, not all gardeners manage to get large bulbs, since they do not always ripen well and have a thick neck, and in this case they are stored worse than turnip onions grown from onion sets. Therefore, such a bow often has to be used on the table in the first place, without leaving it for long-term storage.
To start sowing, you need to stock up on seeds of early small-germinated onion varieties, i.e. those that give only one onion. The most suitable for this are early varieties with a short growing season and a small nest - Kaba, Myachkovsky, One-year Siberian, Oktyabrsky, Red Baron, Strigunovsky local, Skvirsky, Tsitaussky, etc.
To grow turnip onions from seeds in the fall, you need to choose a drier and higher area so that in the spring it warms up faster, with fertile soil. This bed should not be shaded by trees or tall vegetables at all, which gardeners often forget. In this case, do not expect a harvest of large bulbs. It is desirable that cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, legumes grew earlier on this bed.
The soil for sowing nigella is completely prepared in the fall. To do this, when cultivating the soil, they are applied per 1 sq. meter of 0.5 buckets of humus, 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate, 1 glass of wood ash.
Then they prepare low beds, where the soil always warms up better in spring. This is especially important if your site is located in a low-lying area. Here, and the beds must be made higher. During the winter they will settle, but all the same, the soil on them will ripen 7-8 days earlier than on the rest of the site.
In the spring, as soon as the soil permits, they bring in 1 sq. square meter of 1 teaspoon of ammonium nitrate. Before sowing, the soil is loosened to a depth of 10-12 cm, the bed is straightened and slightly tamped. Then it is watered with hot water at a temperature of at least 50 degrees and covered with foil for 2-3 days before sowing the seeds.
Onion seeds should be no more than two years old, and it is better to use only fresh seeds in general, since they germinate very slowly and usually have a low germination rate. Therefore, before sowing, the seeds must be well prepared.
Most often, gardeners soak seeds in water at room temperature for a day, replacing it with fresh water 3-4 times. The scientific literature often recommends bubbling seeds for 18-20 hours, i.e. during all this time, pump air or oxygen through the water using an aquarium compressor. But this effective method for an ordinary gardener is very laborious, and not everyone has an aquarium compressor.
In my opinion, the most acceptable (simple and effective) way of preparing onion seeds for sowing is dressing them in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 45 minutes, followed by mandatory soaking in an Epin solution (2 drops of the drug per 100 ml of water) in for 18 hours at a temperature of 24-30 degrees.
Sowing seeds in spring is carried out as early as possible, since onion shoots without shelter tolerate frosts up to minus two degrees. But a further decrease in temperature can cause serious damage and death of plants. Before sowing seeds, the film is removed from the prepared beds, grooves are cut and watering can be poured over them from a watering can with hot water.
Most often, seeds are sown with three- or four-line ribbons at a distance of a row from a row after 12-15 cm, but this can be done across the bed. Seeds are sown no thicker than after 1-1.5 cm, to a depth of 1-1.2 cm on heavy soils and up to 1.5 cm on light soils.
When growing turnip onions from seeds, it is very important to observe all elements of onion growing technology. First of all, the prepared bed must be carefully leveled before sowing, because on a hilly bed the seeds will be unevenly embedded in the soil, and the seedlings will be thick or thin. At the same time, underdeveloped bulbs will grow from deeply planted seeds.
For even sowing, the seeds are mixed with dry sifted sand or powdered with chalk so that they are clearly visible against the background of the soil. At the end of sowing, the soil must be slightly compacted in order to draw moisture to the seeds, mulch with a thin layer of peat and stretch the film over the bed.
As soon as the first shoots of onions appear, this film must be removed immediately, otherwise the seedlings under it may burn out on sunny days. Instead of a film, the bed must be covered with lutrasil or spunbond and this shelter must not be removed until early June.
Care for onions begins even before the emergence of shoots with careful loosening with a rake over the entire surface of the ridge across the rows. With the emergence of seedlings, the onion grows slowly for about three weeks until 2-3 true leaves appear. at this time, his root system is very weak and needs to be provided with oxygen and nutrients. During this period, the main enemies of the onion are fast growing weeds, which can quickly shade the onion.
It was at this time that the soil must be sprinkled with ash or a mixture of naphthalene and sand (in a ratio of 1:20) in order to prevent damage to young seedlings by onion fly larvae.
The emerging seedlings begin to thin out gradually, otherwise a good bulb will not work. The first thinning must be done already when one true leaf appears, leaving 1-1.5 cm between the plants. The most important thing is that at this time the plants, growing, do not crowd each other in rows.
The second thinning is carried out in the phase of 2-3 leaves, leaving a distance of 2-3 cm between the plants.When 4 leaves appear, you can carry out the third thinning, leaving 5-6 cm between the plants. Just remember to press the soil around the remaining plants with each thinning so that the onion fly was unable to lay eggs.
If the plants are placed denser, then the bulbs will turn out to be small, and at a greater distance, their ripening may be delayed. But you should not rush in particular with thinning the onions, since you can also collect an additional harvest of green onions from the garden.
There are no special secrets for caring for onions in an annual culture. The main thing is to do everything on time. Other conditions are frequent, but shallow (3-4 cm) loosening between rows, especially on heavy soils, and watering.
As the plants grow, they are periodically fed. The first feeding is carried out when the 2-3rd leaf is formed with a slurry solution (1:15) with the addition of 1 tbsp. tablespoons of superphosphate in a bucket of solution or a solution of bird droppings (1:12).
If necessary, during subsequent dressings to prepare a nutrient solution for 1 bucket of water, take 1.5 teaspoons of potassium sulfate and 1 tbsp. spoon of superphosphate. Potash and phosphorus fertilizers accelerate the ripening of the bulbs, increase their density and keeping quality. And with an excess of nitrogen in the soil, the keeping quality of the bulbs worsens. When feeding with solutions of mineral fertilizers, light watering is preliminarily carried out.
In May-June, onions are usually watered once a week, in hot weather - 2 times. Watering is done carefully, preferably by sprinkling, trying not to break the feathers. In mid-July, it is necessary to stop watering the onions even in the absence of precipitation, since at this time the bulbs are ripening. When the leaves are lodged, the plants must be pulled out, dried and sorted by size. Depending on the upcoming use of the onion, it is necessary to select the desired temperature regime for storing it.