We make a biofireplace for our summer cottage: a hearth with a "live fire" without smoke and ash

We make a biofireplace for our summer cottage: a hearth with a

A safe open fire has a calming effect on a person. After all, it creates an atmosphere of comfort and warmth. But not everyone has the opportunity to build a fireplace in their home or on the site. An excellent alternative to this device can be a biofireplace - a live fire without smoke and ash. Unlike the traditional version, the biofireplace does not imply the arrangement of a chimney, since no harmful substances are released during the combustion of biofuel.

What is a biofireplace and why is it good?

Bio fireplaces can be safely called a new generation of traditional wood-burning fireplaces and heating devices. A real living flame, resulting from the combustion of biofuels based on alcohols, does not emit soot and smoke and does not leave traces of burning and soot.

Modern bio fireplaces have long won love among a wide range of buyers due to their attractive appearance and safety in use.

They can be installed both in open areas of a suburban area and indoors at home. But since an open fire tends to burn oxygen, the room in which the improvised hearth burns must be periodically ventilated.

Depending on the location of the device, there are several types of biofireplaces: wall, floor and table.

Wall-mounted - compact flat structures, the side and rear walls of which are made of metal, and the front part is protected by glass

Tabletop - act as a miniature imitation of fireplaces. They have a protective glass screen through which live fire is perfectly visible

Floor standing - imitate traditional wood burning appliances. They are installed on the floor of open areas, or in niches or corners of the room.

Depending on the size of the structure, biofireplaces can have from one to several fuel blocks - burners. Bioethanol is most often used as a fuel, which does not leave combustion products.

Biofireplaces have a lot of advantages: ease of installation, does not require a chimney, there is no dirt from firewood, there is no soot and soot. The only drawback of popular heating devices is their price. However, masters with basic knowledge and building skills will be able to confirm that making a biofireplace with their own hands is not such a difficult task.

We invite you to watch a video where the simplest model of a biofireplace is being constructed, so that you understand how simple it is:

Methods for self-production of a biofireplace

Build # 1 - Miniature Desktop Device

To make a tabletop hearth, we need:

  • Glass and glass cutter;
  • Silicone sealant (for gluing glasses);
  • Metal grid;
  • Metal box for the base of the structure;
  • Fuel capacity;
  • Non-combustible composite materials;
  • Lace-wick;
  • Fuel for biofireplace;

To equip the fireplace screen, you can use ordinary 3 mm thick window glass or glass from photo frames.

The simplest form of a tabletop biofireplace is with a rectangular or square base. Arrangement of such a structure will only take a few hours.

An oven baking sheet, barbecue grill or stainless steel construction mesh is ideal for a metal mesh base. A metal glass can be used to equip a container for fuel. The easiest way to make a biofireplace fuel block is from a square or rectangular metal planter.

An alternative to non-combustible composite materials can be sea pebbles and any heat-resistant stones of small sizes.

The dimensions of the structure depend only on the wishes of the master. However, when calculating the dimensions, it should be borne in mind that the distance from the burner to the side windows should not exceed 15 cm. At the same time, if the glass is too close to an open fire, there is a possibility that it will burst. The number of burners is determined taking into account the size of the site or room. On average, a desktop biofireplace with one burner is enough for an area of ​​16 square meters.

Having decided on the dimensions of the structure and taking into account the dimensions of the lower part of the biofireplace - a metal fuel block, we cut out 4 blanks from glass.

We assemble a glass casing from the blanks, which will act as a biofireplace screen. We connect glass elements with each other using silicone sealant

Having carefully connected and glued all the glass elements, we leave the screen until the sealant is completely dry. It is convenient to clean off the remains of dried silicone sealant with a regular blade.

To fix the glass blanks well, place the assembled screen between stationary objects and leave it for several hours

We turn to the arrangement of the fuel block.

Place a can filled with fuel in the center of the metal box. If we use two or more burners to equip a biofireplace, then we place them in a box at a distance of 15 centimeters from each other

We make a mesh flooring: from a metal lattice, using metal scissors, we cut out a rectangle, the size of which corresponds to the dimensions of the box.

We lay the metal lattice on the walls of the box, for reliability, grabbing the corners of the structure in several places with welded seams

We twist the wick from the lace and immerse one of its ends into a container with fuel. We cover the metal mesh itself with heat-resistant stones, decorate with ceramic logs and other non-combustible materials.

In addition to the decorative function, heat-resistant stones will evenly distribute the heat of the burner over the entire surface of the grate to the glass casing

The table biofireplace is ready. All that remains is to install a glass box on the metal block and set fire to the fuel-soaked wick.

Construction # 2 - angular variation for a gazebo

The corner version of the biofireplace is interesting in that it can be safely placed in the corner of a gazebo or veranda. Taking up a minimum of space, it will bring notes of coziness and comfort to the atmosphere, conducive to a pleasant stay.

Since the biofireplace is an object of increased fire hazard, you should always leave a sufficient distance from the hearth itself to the walls and the upper part of the structure.

To make a corner structure, we need:

  • Guide and rack metal profile 9 m long;
  • 1 sheet of non-combustible drywall;
  • 2 square meters of mineral (basalt) wool;
  • Finishing gypsum plaster;
  • 2.5 square meters of tiles or artificial stone;
  • Grout and heat-resistant tile adhesive;
  • Dowel-nails and self-tapping screws;
  • Fuel tank;
  • Heat-resistant stones and non-combustible decorative elements.

Having decided on the location and design of the future hearth for the correct calculation of the necessary materials and visualization of the image on a sheet of paper, we draw a sketch, observing the proportions. Then you can tinker, it is best to start with the markup.

We apply markings to the wall, along which we attach the previously cut guide profiles. We insert rack profiles into them, fixing the elements with self-tapping screws

After we have checked the verticality of the structure using a plumb line, we attach the frame to the wall using dowel-nails and self-tapping screws. For reliability, it is advisable to fasten the fireplace stands with jumpers.

The frame itself is sheathed on the outside with plasterboard, screwing it onto self-tapping screws every 10-15 cm.In the area of ​​the firebox, we lay a 5-cm layer of mineral wool

At the bottom of the furnace, we leave a recess into which we will subsequently install the burner. Since during the operation of the hearth the temperature around the burner can reach 150 ° C, the base of the fuel part is made of hard non-combustible material.

We putty the structure sheathed with plasterboard and revet it with tiles, refractory tiles or natural stone, which will organically combine with other elements of the recreation area

After completing the work, we rub the seams with a special grout.

The fireplace is ready. It remains to wipe the surface first with a damp and then dry cloth and lay out heat-resistant stones and decorative elements

It is convenient to use a special tank or a cylindrical burner as a container for biofuel. To ensure the safety of loved ones, the front wall of the biofireplace can be closed with heat-resistant glass and a forged fireplace grate.

Making fuel for such a hearth

The fuel for the bio-fireplace is bioethanol - a colorless and odorless liquid containing alcohol and acting as a substitute for gasoline. Its main advantage is that during combustion it does not emit harmful gases and does not leave behind soot and soot. Therefore, biofuel fireplaces do not require the installation of hoods, due to which one hundred percent heat transfer is achieved. And besides, during the combustion of bioethanol due to the released water vapor, the air is humidified.

You can buy fuel in specialized stores. It comes in plastic bottles and cans. One liter of liquid is enough for 2-5 hours of continuous burning

Fuel for a biofireplace can be made with your own hands. This will require:

  • Medical alcohol 90-96 degrees;
  • Gasoline for Zippo lighters.

Gasoline can transform a blue laboratory flame into a living orange hotbed. You just need to mix these two components in such a proportion that gasoline is 6-10% of the volume of medical alcohol. Shake the finished composition well and pour it into a container for fuel. Fuel consumption is 100 ml per 1 hour of burning.

After igniting the fuel, for the first 2-3 minutes while the flame is small, a slight smell of alcohol is felt within a radius of several meters from the biofireplace. But as the fuel heats up, when the vapors begin to burn, and not the liquid itself, the smell quickly dissipates, and the flame becomes lively and playful.

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With your own hands - How to do it yourself

No garden is complete without a practical and beautiful garden path. After all, it's nice to walk with comfort both in dry and rainy weather! Here are just prices for finished tiles, to put it mildly, biting. I found an option that, without breaking a hole in the budget, pleases all of us for more than one year.

We made the material for the tiles ourselves, mixing 1 part of M300 cement with 3 parts of sand. You can also buy a ready-made mixture - sand concrete M300.

ADVICE. For the manufacture of tiles for garden paths, it is better to mix cement with sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 3: 4. Even with a tile thickness of 7-8 cm, reinforcement is required!

For decoration, we used the tiles left over from the repair, additionally bought the remnants of the collections in the village hardware store (and I generally found some behind the store in the courtyard, they were banally thrown away).

The dimensions of the tiles were originally made 30x60x3 cm, but the experiment was unsuccessful: the tiles turned out to be long, and some of them broke. Later we made them thicker.

The form was also created with our own hands from a sheet of non-combustible chipboard. Divided it with small bars into 6 even parts, put the walls. The decorative tiles were put in bags (so that the fragments would not get in the face) and with the help of a sledgehammer they crumbled it, making the fragments of the required size. We put them in a shape with the beautiful side down.

The mixture of sand and cement was mixed with water until the consistency of thick sour cream and the tiles were poured. The main thing is not to fill them abruptly, otherwise the lower decorative fragments will "float up". After laying down the reinforcement, the remains were carefully refilled. In this form, our future path rested for several days in the shade, covered with polyethylene. We only poured water on it from time to time.

The tiles turned out to be heavy, and two strong men pulled them out of the mold. In some places there were gaps between the decorative inserts (the mixture did not flow well). I, diluting a small amount of cement mixture, covered the cracks with a spatula and just with my hands in rubber gloves.

A base was made at the location chosen for the track. They removed the soil by about half of the shovel's bayonet and filled the foundation pit with a sand-gravel mixture (ASM). All were tamped down and beautiful tiles were laid on top. I covered the cracks with sand, but I think if you take a dry mixture, it will turn out better and stronger.

ADVICE. If your soil is clayey, heaving, it is worth laying geotextiles under the base. He will not let the ASG "drown".

My tile has served me for several years, pleases the eye! The track does not slip even in the rain: cement seams hold like sandpaper.


Why are stoves like "potbelly stoves" so popular

Homemade stoves like "potbelly stove"

The origin of the name of such a heating device is interesting, where "potbelly stove" is translated from English as "pot-shaped belly", although in tsarist Russia this does not correspond a little to the translation. The furnace found its origin in various underground organizations that fought against the capitalist regime and it is from here that such a definition stuck.


Restoration and maintenance of the bas-relief

Sometimes there are various kinds of troubles, for example, chipping off individual parts of the bas-relief. In addition, over time, the composition loses its original appeal. Gaps may form in the attachment points to the wall.

To rectify the situation, it is necessary to carry out the restoration of the composition. Breaking elements are restored using a similar composition of the solution, which must be made with exactly the same consistency. The resulting gaps are simply covered with the finished mixture.

If the bas-relief was painted with saturated colors, which eventually lost their brightness, then a new layer of acrylic is applied to the drawing. In order for the composition to retain its attractiveness longer, it should be covered with a layer of varnish.

The embossed image with plaster or other similar material highlights part of the wall or becomes the centerpiece of an entire room. The bas-reliefs in the room will always surprise and grab the attention of guests.

For their manufacture, it is not at all necessary to spend a lot of money. If you follow the instructions, you can create a masterpiece on your wall yourself.

The video with the master class is presented below.

Bas-relief for beginners with their own hands | Artist Natalia Bobrova

DIY bas-relief: a master class for beginners - a sculptural masterpiece on the wall | (100 Photos & Videos)


Watch the video: How to Use Bio FiresBioethanol Fires