Pruning lilacs in spring - the formation of a bush and its rejuvenation

 Pruning lilacs in spring - the formation of a bush and its rejuvenation

Pruning lilacs is one of the must-have activities for caring for it. If this is not done, then with each subsequent year the flowering intensity will noticeably decrease, the bush will grow overgrown, and after a few years the plantings will "run wild" and completely lose their decorative effect. But now we will talk about how to properly cut lilacs.

Annual pruning

For an attractive appearance and giving the crown a certain shape, you need to cut off new shoots that grow too long every spring. You can evaluate which branch you need to shorten yourself, you just have to carefully examine the tree. This process of slightly shortening actively growing shoots is called pinching and is brought to the nearest pair of lateral branches. Given the softness and fragility of young greens, this can be done with regular hand scissors or a small pruning shears.

You can evaluate which branch you need to shorten yourself, you just have to carefully examine the tree

Why is pinching of growing shoots useful in spring?

  • the growth of lateral shoots is stimulated;
  • the part on which future flower buds are formed is preserved;
  • helps to maintain a harmonious crown shape.

In addition to pruning greenery, the lilac bush needs annual removal of faded brushes. The fact is that if you leave the wilting inflorescences on them, seeds will soon begin to form, and this takes up a significant part of the plant's energy. In turn, this will negatively affect the further growth and laying of flower buds next year. Therefore, when most of the lilac inflorescences bloom and the overall flowering gradually declines, do not regret, cut off all the most luxurious branches, decorate the house with fragrant bouquets, give them to friends and neighbors.

Remember! The more you cut flowers from a lilac bush, the more intensely it will bloom next year.

Correct cropping video

At the same time, remove all wilted brushes, dry remains of last year's inflorescences and accidentally broken off branches. In this case, it is correct to make a cut at the base of the inflorescence, where the green part passes into a lignified branch.

Advice! If you notice that the flowers wilted on one of the branches earlier than the others, cut off such a branch immediately, otherwise the energy of the neighboring shoots will go not for their flowering, but for the formation of seeds.

Thinning the bush

The best time to prune is early spring.

Lilac plantings grow quickly, especially young plants. Therefore, it is extremely important to regularly thin the crown and do it in a timely manner.

The best time to prune is in early spring, when weak and sore branches are easier to spot. As a rule, leaf buds on them are much smaller, the twigs themselves are thin and brittle, and the leaves bloom later than others. Flowering on such shoots can hardly be expected, but the plant will only waste energy on their maintenance. Weak, damaged or frostbitten branches are pruned to the first healthy branch.

In the spring, unsuccessfully located shoots growing inside the crown are also removed. Such branches receive very little sunlight after foliage blooming and therefore flower buds cannot form in them. In addition, excessive thickening of a bush or tree impedes free air circulation, and this creates the risk of developing fungal diseases. In a dense crown, it is also more difficult to deal with pests - and it is more difficult to notice them, and to carry out high-quality processing.

During pruning, be sure to remove all root growth, cutting it off at the very base. It is especially important to bring this to grafted specimens, since from the roots they grow "wild" - shoots completely unpromising in terms of flowering.

Important! You don't need to delete too many branches, no more than a third of the total. At the same time, it is worth observing the balance of young and stiff shoots, because flower buds will be laid on old branches, and new ones will replace them in the future.

Video about the correct cutting of inflorescences

All unnecessary branches are cut closer to the base of their growth, leaving only a small stump. If you did not have time to do this before the time when you dissolve the foliage, then you can prune later. Thinning of lilacs is performed at the end of May, simultaneously with the removal of fading inflorescences. The main thing is not to prune in the summer, because it is at this time that the flower buds of the next year are laid and if you cut off the shoots on which they formed, then it is quite clear that there will be no lush flowering next spring. Therefore, if the pruning was not carried out on time, then in the summer, autumn, and even more so in winter, you should not take the pruner, it is better to postpone the procedure for a year.

Lilac rejuvenation

Over time, old bushes lose their decorative effect, they bloom less often and are no longer so luxuriant, and there is little greenery on them. Therefore, strong, anti-aging pruning will help restore a healthy appearance to lilac plantings. This procedure stimulates the growth of young shoots, which in the future will become the main trunks of a bush or a tree trunk.

The site of possible inoculation is distinguished by some branching or thickening on the trunk

Rejuvenation is carried out in early spring, when the plant has not yet started to grow. Before starting work, it is important to find out the following fact: was the seedling grafted or is it self-rooted? The intensity and quality of pruning depends on this.

Remember! The grafted plant is by no means cut off below the grafting point, otherwise the cultivated varietal lilac bush will turn into an ordinary wild one.

The site of possible grafting is distinguished by some branching or thickening on the trunk, as well as by a different structure and pattern of the rootstock and scion bark. If you did not notice such signs, then your lilac was not grafted and young replacement shoots can be grown from the root growth.

The plot is about how to fix lilacs

Vigorous pruning of bushes in spring for the purpose of rejuvenation involves the removal of old branches, including those on which inflorescences were expected. But by sacrificing one year's bloom, you will be rewarded with good, healthy growth and fragrant buds in the future.

First of all, too old branches with cracked bark and a bare trunk are removed. Sometimes they are cut to the very base, sometimes they are shortened by ⅓ or ½ of its length. Do not worry that the plant will lose its attractiveness at first. After a couple of seasons, the formation of a healthy, full of life plant with a young green crown and fragrant spring flowering ends.

How to properly prune an apple tree in spring so as not to remove fruit branches

Pruning apple trees in the spring is an extremely important procedure. It is on her that the development, intensity and correctness of tree growth depend. Therefore, before you start, you definitely need to learn how to read the tree so as not to damage the fruit branches and get a wonderful harvest.

Cinquefoil (Latin Potentilla)

A large genus of plants in the rose family. More than 300 species are known. Flowers are most often collected in inflorescences, but there are species with single flowers of white, pink, red or yellow.

With the onset of spring warmth, nature begins an active process of recovery and renewal. Right now, all plants are most susceptible to pruning, grafting, and transplanting quite easily. Spring crown formation will give trees not only a beautiful appearance, this procedure is necessary to improve the fruiting of both young and old apple trees.

Withered flowers: what's the problem?

With the aesthetic side of the issue, everything is clear: faded, half-flown, inflorescences that have lost their shape do not decorate a flower bed. But this is not the only problem.

Flowering worsens

A living organism is characterized by the desire to leave offspring. When seeds are formed in the place of a flower, it is they that become a priority for the plant, it is on them that the maximum energy is spent. Plucking withering flowers, we stimulate the plant to form new buds, new flower stalks. Well, if the fruits were formed, the seeds began to ripen, this often serves as a signal: the program is completed, there is no need for flowers anymore, all the strength is for the continuation of the race.

By removing wilting flowers in time, you can stimulate the formation of new buds

Once flowering plants (for example, delphiniums, primroses and others), with timely pruning of wilting inflorescences, are able to bloom again at the end of the season. In lilacs (and most other flowering shrubs), peonies, daffodils, pruning lays the foundation for good flowering in the next season. If you are not lazy to remove wilted petunia flowers, the plant will bush better and bloom more abundantly. In dahlias, this procedure prolongs the flowering period.

Diseases develop

Not necessarily, yes. In hot weather, wilting flowers instantly dry out and usually do not pose a threat to the health of the plant. But in a rainy summer, dying inflorescences often rot, become limp from excess moisture and can serve as a favorable environment for the reproduction of pathogenic microflora.

Withering flowers can be a source of disease

Resources are wasted

And flowering, and (even more so!) The formation of fruits and seeds requires the expenditure of nutrients and water. By timely removing all unnecessary, unnecessary, we help the plant to save resources, spend them rationally. From this point of view, it is better to cut off wilting inflorescences in a timely manner, without waiting for them to completely dry out.

Self seeding possible

If wilted flowers are not removed or pruned too late, some plants may self-seize abundantly. If such spontaneous reproduction is not included in your plans, cut off the fading inflorescences in time. Aquilegia, daisies, Turkish carnations, calendula, some types of ornamental onions and other crops reproduce actively by self-seeding.

How to prune lilacs after flowering?

  • In early spring, select 6-10 strong shoots on the bush that are farthest from each other and create the outline of the plant. Cut off the rest of the branches, cut out the small ones directed inward to the crown completely, and shorten the stronger ones a little.
  • Such thinning and sanitary pruning of lilacs must be carried out every spring, when the buds have already begun to grow.
  • Pruning is mandatory, otherwise the shoots under faded flower clusters will weaken. Therefore, as soon as the lilac has faded, it should be cut off. The sooner you do this, the better new shoots will develop and the flowering will be especially lush.

  • It should be borne in mind that pruning sometimes causes the shrub to bloom after a year. Lilacs are formed with pruning shears, and large branches are cut down. Places of cuts must be covered with paint.
  • The basic principle of pruning is to remove all small branches. They do not bloom and can take a lot of energy from the plant.
  • If the branch has small and thin shoots, you need to remove it completely. The inflorescences must be removed immediately after flowering (only the inflorescences without a branch are removed).
  • Never break off a shrub, this will damage the buds, which will not bloom the next year.
  • You need to remove all the shoots, leaving only healthy shoots that will replace the old ones in the future.
  • To care for lilacs during flowering, you need to cut branches from abundantly flowering bushes.
  • After the plant has faded, all dry inflorescences must be carefully cut off.
  • Be sure to do sanitary pruning in the spring and fall.with the removal of diseased and drying out branches growing inside the bush of shoots. Don't forget about formative pruning, in which you need to ensure that the kidneys remain.
  • Before you cut and put flowers in a vase, you need to know some tricks so that lush inflorescences delight you with their aroma and beauty longer:
  • Freshen up the bevel cuts by making new ones with a sharp knife underwater. The best way is to knead the ends of the shoots with a hammer.
  • It is better to cut lilacs from young bushes than from old ones.
  • Add a little citric or acetic acid (but not sugar) to the water in which there is a bouquet of lilacs.
  • To keep the inflorescences in the bouquet longer, a significant part of the leaves must be removed.

Read also:

  • Hedge planting rules
  • How to choose shrubs for your hedge?

The lilac bush is unpretentious, but despite this, it looks impressive. Anyone, even a beginner, summer resident can handle planting and leaving. Observing the rules of planting, watering and pruning, you will grow a luxurious plant that will decorate your summer cottage.

Related entries:

Bubbles: planting and care. Features of pruning and reproduction of the vesicle

Trimming time

Beginners and experienced gardeners alike often get lost in the question of when is the best time to prune trees. You need to understand that the processes that trees are subject to in autumn and spring are completely different. In particular, if circumcision occurs in the spring, it stimulates vegetative processes. If - in the summer, then this promotes the establishment of shoots and allows the branches to mature better. Traditions say that the ideal time comes with the beginning of spring (March-April), but for some decorative species this is destructive.

Spring Summer Pruning

The last ten days of February and the first of March are the optimal time to start sanitary pruning. It promotes the development of shoots and harmoniously combines with the rhythms along which plants live.

If you cut it off in the first decade of June, when summer is just coming into its own, then you need to focus on taking into account a couple of important features.

  1. This slows down vegetative processes, and pruning of individual branches can last until the last decade of August.
  2. In general, expect that the more you prune now, the less you will have to do it in the future.
  3. Pruning is carried out only after the trees have already bloomed, or the movement of the juice is completed (for cherries, mulberries, grapes). Remember that pruning has less effect on the tree if it is covered in leaves: then the injuries heal faster.

The pruning time of fruit trees, for example, pear and apple trees, is most favorable precisely in the spring, when the daytime temperature exceeds 0 ° C. On the contrary, it is better not to touch plums and peaches at this time, as the risk increases that they will start to hurt. You can start working on them when the first buds appear or when the leaf opens. In extreme cases, pruning is quite possible to postpone to the summer.

It is best to prune apricots in the summer, because this makes it possible to determine exactly which type of procedure will be optimal. In addition, pruning carried out in an atmosphere of stable heat will increase the frost resistance of trees and give immunity to temperature extremes.

If the gardener finds that the tree has not endured the winter well, then pruning should not start earlier than May-June, in the event that the damage from the cold is insignificant, then it is permissible to process it immediately, thereby stimulating their growth.

Autumn pruning

Experienced gardeners note that cutting in the fall has a negative effect on most trees. This primarily concerns cherries, pears and plums. Unless there is a great need, you should not bother them during this period, it is better to postpone all work in the spring.

Young trees are also very sensitive to autumn pruning, to the point that a fragile plant may disappear. If a one-year growth is cut off, the risk increases that the cut site will freeze, capturing the nearby area. Of course, the wound will not be able to quickly and efficiently overgrow, which will lead to problems in the future.

Most often, autumn is used as a time aimed exclusively at sanitary pruning. Winter, with its cold weather, is the best time for a tree to meet without aggravating damage. If the plant is severely damaged, there is little chance that it will survive the cold season. Most often, the buds that remained on the shortened branches of a young plant do not open with the arrival of spring. It is important to know that pruning in the fall is possible only if the air temperature does not exceed -5 ° C.

Finally, we can add that the correct pruning will significantly increase the yield of the fruits obtained, the plant itself will become stronger and healthier, and the gardener will be happy with the elegant appearance of his site.

Video "Pruning fruit in the fall"

In the spring, formative, regulating and rejuvenating pruning is carried out on fruit and ornamental shrubs. In this case, you should not cut off those plants in which the formation of flower buds occurs only on last year's shoots.

By cutting up to 1/3 of the branches of the total crown volume, you can significantly rejuvenate the old shrub, and increase the yield in neglected fruit plants. But in order not to greatly weaken the shrub, such an operation should be carried out in several stages.

Pruning of gooseberries and currants is carried out by thinning the bushes by cutting 5-6 summer branches to a strong lateral branching or completely, the growth of which does not exceed 15 centimeters. Drooping branches are also pruned.

In the spring of raspberries, successfully overwintered annual shoots are shortened to the first bud, which is well developed. In the rows of raspberries on a running meter, no more than 15 of the strongest shoots are left, reaching a height of at least one and a half meters. And such shrubs as flowering turf, viburnum, cercis, tree peony and irga do not require pruning at all.

Features of different types of pruning of conifers

The most popular and necessary type of pruning of conifers in spring is a sanitary haircut. In the process of carrying out such a procedure, diseased and damaged branches are removed. To do this, use a pruner or hacksaw. Small twigs are best removed with a more convenient tool, such as garden shears.

Another type of haircut is shaping or decorative. It is performed, if necessary, to urgently add gloss and beauty to the plants. It allows you to remove all elements that have grown a little, stand out from the general background. First, a basic or primary haircut is applied. It is performed 1 time in the life of a tree or shrub. In the future, only supporting pruning is carried out. They retain the silhouette or outline of the tree that was planned at the beginning.

If you want to create a stylized Pine haircut that looks like Italian Pinia, follow these recommendations:

  1. Delete all skeletal branches up to the 4th tier. Such branches will no longer appear, since the pine tree does not have dormant buds on the trunk.
  2. After preparing the stem, you need to remove the crown. This is done in 2 steps. First, a preliminary cut is made so as not to peel off the bark in the tier. Then a final cut is made to the level of the branches.
  3. The top of the Pine is trimmed with trellis shears.

In the future, over the course of several years, it will be necessary to trim the upper tier. The result is a wide and massive umbrella-top on a thick trunk. Single branches on the trunk can be removed immediately in 1 step so that there are no stumps left.

Those who start doing topiary art can start with basic forms. The easiest way is to make a ball from Western Tui. The basis of this shape is several trunks that provide resistance to snow and winds. You can start the process at the end of April, beginning of May. Prepare pruning shears and trellis shears for work.

To make the ball look beautiful, take a Tuyu with a lot of lower branches and needles. First, remove the vertical trunks to the point where the top of the ball will be. If they are too large, it may even be necessary to use a saw. After removing the trunks, using the trellis shears, you can start cutting the Tuyu. The next haircut is carried out exactly 1 year later.

Separately, it should be said about how the pruning of ground cover coniferous shrubs is carried out. For example, Junipers allow you to experiment and remove whatever length of branches the grower sees fit.

Watch the video: Pruning u0026 Fertilizing My Hydrangeas! . Garden Answer