Echeveria 'Mauna Loa'

Echeveria 'Mauna Loa'

Succulentopedia

Echeveria 'Mauna Loa'

Echeveria 'Mauna Loa' is an eye-catching succulent that forms rosettes of large flat leaves that crinkle and frill at the edges. The…


Echeveria

Rosette Forming, Pastel Color Tones, Full to Part Sun

Echeveria (ek-uh-VAIR-ee-uh) are popular rose-shaped soft succulents with a remarkable pastel color palette. Some varieties can grow to the size of a dinner plate and their pearlescent tones make them stunning focal points for potted arrangements, rock gardens, favors, décor, and much more. The rich diversity of colors, shapes, and sizes of Echeveria make them great additions to any project or event.

APPEARANCE

  • Colors:Echeveria show a wide variety of pastel pinks, purples, blues, and greens and can be two-toned or have contrasting leaf tips. The color of a single plant is variable, with more vibrant colors appearing when the plant receives more light.
  • Form: These rosette-shaped plants send out new offsets on stolons (horizontal stems), and if given space, the colony will spread outward from the mother plant.
  • Foliage: Leaves can be velvety, fuzzy, smooth, or crinkly and are often coated with a powdery layer of natural wax that gives them a soft, glaucous look. Their thick, fleshy leaves store water and sustain the plant through periods of drought.
  • Flowers: Each summer a rosette can send up a tall bloom stalk, from which dangle attractive, bell-shaped flowers of yellow, orange, or pink. The full bloom cycle can last for several weeks and attract migrating butterflies.
  • Light:Echeveria need a lot of light to thrive and show their best colors, so indoor plants need to be kept near a sunny window or under grow lights. Outdoor plantings can take full to partial sun extra shade will protect them from sun burn on hot afternoons in summer.
  • Soil: Rapidly-draining, gritty soil is important for Echeveria, as they are accustomed to growing in small crevices in rocky outcroppings. They will not tolerate standing water, so choose a sandy soil like cactus/succulent potting mix. Soil amendments are not necessary, but gardeners can encourage faster growth by applying slow-release, low-Nitrogen fertilizer in spring.
  • Water:Echeveria thrive on deep, infrequent watering with enough time between for the soil to fully dry. Water the soil directly (not the leaves) and be sure to use containers with drainage holes. Watering frequency can vary greatly, so look to the plant and soil for signs of needing more or less frequent water.
  • Hardiness:Echeveria are cold hardy down to 20F-30F (zone 9-10). They can tolerate light frost, but should not be kept at consistently below-freezing temperatures. Gardeners in all regions, however, can enjoy Echeveria year-round as indoor plants - just be sure they're given plenty of direct light.
  • Propagation: These tenacious plants can often regrow from cuttings of offsets, leaves, and stems. For mature, overgrown plants, you can use a clean, sharp knife to cut off the tighter rosette at the top. Let all cuttings dry in a shady spot for several days and replant in moist, well-draining soil. Full Guide to Succulent Cuttings

NOTES FROM THE NURSERY

Echeveria are among the most beautiful and popular of all succulents and require little maintenance to cultivate. If problems do arise, they're often related to a lack of light or an excess of water. Ensure that any change in light conditions is gradual so that the plant has time to adjust. For example, when receiving plants that have been shipped in a box, incrementally increase the amount of light exposure over 1-2 weeks to prevent both stretching and sunburn. For water related problems, pay attention to the plant and the soil for signs of over- or underwatering. Insert a finger or popsicle stick into the soil to check that it is completely dry before watering and avoid letting droplets sit on the leaves if possible. A dry succulent is far easier to revive than one that has begun to rot, so err on the side of less frequent watering.

For more information, check out Debra Lee Baldwin's book, Succulents Simplified .


Peace Lily Plant Profile

The peace lily is a tropical species that is a favorite flowering houseplant. A striking plant when used in mass display, the peace lily blooms in spring with long-lasting flower stalks that hover gracefully over the foliage. A well-grown peace lily may bloom twice a year, resulting in several months of flowers. The plant has glossy oval leaves with points that emerge from the soil.

Peace lilies are indisputably terrific as houseplants. Small varieties look attractive on a tabletop and bigger ones can occupy a nice-sized spot on the floor. They filter more indoor pollutants than most other plants, so are great for bedrooms or other frequented rooms. Inside the tropical plant's pores, toxic gases like carbon monoxide and formaldehyde are broken down and neutralized. Peace lily can also be grown outdoors in warm climates, where it can tower as much as 6 feet high.

Despite their name, peace lilies are not members of the lily family. The peace lily is a member of the Araceae family of plants, known collectively as aroids. It is related to the philodendron, anthurium, and alocasia—also very popular as houseplants.

Botanical Name Spathiphyllum
Common Name Peace lily, spath lily
Plant Type Flowering tropical plant
Mature Size Up to 3 feet tall indoors up to 6 feet tall outdoors
Sun Exposure Medium, indirect light
Soil Type Peat-based potting mix with perlite, sand, or bark
Soil pH 5.8 to 6.5
Bloom Time Spring
Flower Color White or yellow
Hardiness Zones 11 to 12, USDA
Native Area The rainforests of Central and South America

Growth and Care

Under ideal conditions, the Mauna Loa stays compact and low growing. It takes a while until its main stem gets any height. This is mainly due to its low leaf density. This means that with younger specimens, you’ll want to clear some space around the base so it would have airflow.

Eventually as it grows taller and gains a bit of height on the stem, you can worry less about the undersides. No plant will want to grow underneath anyway because they will not get enough light. The large leaves of the Mauna Loa will see to that.

Due to the low density of the rosette, the Mauna Loa does not shed as much leaves. When the lower leaves finally dry out you will still want to remove them just to be on the safe side (and prevent fungus from growing). I have several Mauna Loa in my collection and I have never seen any of them experience stem rot. They seem to be resilient to it. At most only the poorly-ventilated leaves will rot, which is not a big problem since you can remove them.

It takes at least 2-3 years for them to mature and reach peak size. It seems to be growing slowly during the first couple of years in terms of size, but you’ll notice it grow large fast enough once it gains momentum.


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