Weed control with cut grass

Weed control with cut grass

The grass kills the weeds

Perhaps there is not a single summer resident or gardener who, in his practice, would not be faced with the need to master a new piece of land, completely overgrown with mighty grass, or with the desire to get rid of such malicious weeds as wheatgrass, to faint, bindweed other. However, often, even after applying all the known methods of domesticating the land and spending a lot of effort and money, success does not come immediately and not always.

Having found out somehow a bald patch of bare earth, formed at the place where there was a head of hay, I began to observe it. It was interesting: when and how will it grow? And then I decided to use this method - removing the grass cover and malicious weeds with the help of cut grass. He acted according to the popular way: "wedge-wedge". I was mowing wild-growing grass at the planned planting site. Then from the same and any other grass he formed bundles, then turned into chopped grass - mulch... Before using it, I dry it slightly or wither in the sun.


The first experience was carried out more than five years ago with potatoes, the tubers of which I planted on the micro-hills of the brought earth and immediately covered them with mulch prepared in advance. At the same time, every time, as soon as the tops rose above the mulch, I again covered each bush with a new layer of grass. And this continued until the herbal mulch pillow, each time settling, reached a height of 25-30 cm. After that, the potatoes grew for two weeks, as usual, and when harvesting at the end of July, August and September it turned out that the mass of tubers from a bush was equal to 1.2, 2.1 and 2.7 kg, respectively, that is, reached up to 11-12 kg / m2. Almost a record!

Periodic digging of tubers during the growing season of potatoes showed that in the zone of the grass mulch cushion, completely entangled with roots, moisture is well retained, temperature fluctuations are smoothed out, there is always oxygen and the necessary nutrition, and worms and microorganisms are intensively acting in the zone of sod and mulch, transforming turf grass in fertilizer. By the time of the last digging, only the remnants of almost completely rotted material remained from the sod and mulching grass.

It should be noted that the agricultural technique applied by me did not require digging, loosening the soil, and irrigation and weeding were not required either. In addition, as it turned out after harvesting and leveling the remaining land and rotted grass residues, there was no turf under them. After further simple digging of this piece of land, it was already possible to successfully grow any garden crops on it in the future.


I did the second experiment later. And it was caused by the need to combat weeds - wheatgrass, desolation and bindweed. This time I decided to tidy up a small bed with dimensions of 1.8x1.1 m, adjacent on three sides to the grassy edge of the neighbor's plot. It is from there that all these weeds have gone.

As before, I cut the grass from this bed. On one half of it, I again poured micro-hills of garden soil - there were four of them. It all took one bucket of good soil. And I planted sprouted potato tubers there. I covered the second half of the garden bed, as is recommended in the literature, with pieces of roofing material. To mulch the plantings, I again used exactly the same chopped grass as in the first experiment, and applied it six times in a month and a half, until the mounds acquired the same height as in the first case.

During this entire period, weeds did not appear on the garden bed, and the potatoes grew as usual. At the same time, the tops of the potatoes were always illuminated by the sun, and the weeds covered with mulch remained without light below, their development was suppressed because of this.

And again, after opening the bed, which I did by the time of harvesting the tubers, it turned out that only rotten or semi-rotten remnants remained from the lower part of the mulch and the upper half of the sod. About a month after harvesting the potatoes and aging under the roofing material of the second half of the garden, all the mulch and all the sod turned into compost... I quietly dug it up and dropped it off there winter garlic.

Later it turned out that the harvest of garlic in that half of the garden, where the potatoes used to grow, was one and a half times higher than the harvest obtained from another garden with roofing felt, where the garlic obviously did not have enough food. If we also take into account the potato yield up to 9 kg / m? from the first half of the garden bed, the suppression of wheatgrass, ditching and bindweed with mulch turned out to be a very effective and promising way to control malicious weeds. In addition, although they appeared later, but only on that half of the garden bed that was covered with roofing material, and even then by chance, rarely and only along the edges.

And now let's imagine that for the same purposes, according to the available recommendations, for the beds, the usual means and agricultural techniques would be used. In the first case: the grass was mowed, all the sod was removed with a shovel, imported field land (up to 30 kg / m2) was introduced in its place, manure (up to 10 kg / m2) and mineral fertilizers (up to 70 g / m2).

And also it would be necessary to take up the selection of roots and rhizomes of malicious weeds. At the same time, on a plot of land measuring, for example, 200 m2, to be cultivated, it would be necessary to purchase, deliver and scatter up to 6 tons of soil, 2 tons of manure and 14 kg of mineral fertilizers, which costs a lot of money, and would also require huge manual labor.

In the second case, in addition, at least 50 liters of Roundup would be required for such an area. It would have to be sprayed, and then also wait until its effect ends. Moreover, both in one and in the second case, we would have no guarantees of complete success, since even a small surviving piece of weed can very quickly grow in breadth and re-fill the treated area. The use of a not very complicated agricultural technique - the suppression of grassy land and malicious weeds with mulch grass, requires little labor and costs free, except for your labor of regularly mowing the grass and introducing it to the garden. But the harvest, and quite high, can be harvested at the end of the first season.

In conclusion, I note that the method of cultivating the earth with the help of mulch allows gardeners to grow vegetables on a wide variety of problematic land, including those clogged with foreign inclusions (metal, stone, glass, etc.). In addition, if you add pine or spruce cones, or coniferous sawdust with bark to the mulch, then due to the presence of resin-resin and phytoncides in them, you can protect planting from many pests. In case of a shortage of mulch, you can add chopped tops, shredded paper and other organic matter in a small dose.

Anatoly Veselov, experienced gardener
Photo by E. Valentinov


Manual weeding of a summer cottage from weeds

An affordable, economical and at the same time labor-consuming method for cleaning a personal or suburban area. You will need simple gardening tools and free time, which will have to be spent in the fresh air for the benefit of the future harvest and your own health.

Despite the seeming primitiveness, hand tools can become indispensable helpers in the fight against wild plants. In addition to shovels, rakes or forks, which are traditionally used to work in the garden, you should use other tools that are presented on the shelves of specialized stores. This will allow you to perform monotonous manual work with less labor costs and in a short time.

  1. Hoe. A shovel and a pickaxe, which are combined in one tool. The sharp blade of durable metal is positioned at a 90 degree angle to the base. Used to loosen soil and remove unwanted plants.
  2. Combined hoe. Two functions are combined - a hoe and a rake. The tool is used to remove and collect weeds in narrow spaces between beds or in hard-to-reach places.
  3. Weed rake. A modern tool that makes your work much easier. Equipped with a special mechanism that penetrates deep into the ground and wraps around the roots. With the help of a foot stop, the wild plant is completely removed from the soil.
  4. Cultivator for extracting the underground part of the plant. Indispensable for removing old roots. Thanks to the structure of the teeth screwed into the ground, it is able to easily enter the ground to a depth of 20 cm.
  5. Fork. It is used for weed control in a narrow space. It sinks into the ground and captures the roots without damaging nearby crops.

It is important to take into account that the necessary tool is selected based on the characteristics of the site and the plants on it.


What products should not be used in weed control

Several folk remedies for weed control are not recommended due to their potential to harm the soil. To remove weeds, some gardeners spill the soil with a salt solution (1 kg of table salt per 10 liters of water). The specified amount of solution is enough for 1 sq. m of land. Salt destroys weeds, but after such treatment, nothing can be planted on the site for 1-2 years.

The method of weed control involving the use of alcohol is not very effective and harmful. Ethyl alcohol is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 5 and watered with weeds. It is not recommended to use this method on the beds, as the weed grows quickly, and the soil condition after such watering is very poor.

Burning grass is not only ineffective, but also dangerous, which some gardeners suggest as a method of weed control. In addition, after an arson, the soil microflora is greatly disturbed, and it is not recommended to plant garden crops on such a site for 2 years. Watering the ground with Coca-Cola is not only an expensive but also useless way to control weeds.

We advise you to read these articles:


Weed classification

Before, how to deal with weeds, you should study their nature and familiarize yourself with the classification. This information will help you choose the most correct way, how to get the weed out Location on.

As a rule, weeds are divided into groups according to the most important biological characteristics: methods of feeding, reproduction, as well as the duration of their life.

To classify weeds in the garden, an agrobiological system for dividing plants into:

  • parasitic
  • semi-parasitic
  • non-parasitic.

Parasitic weeds are plants that lack green leaves and roots. Due to special haustoria, they stick to the host plant and feed on its juices.

According to the method of attachment to cultivated plants, parasitic weeds are divided into stem (for example, dodder) and root (different types of broomrape).

Semi-parasitic weeds also tend to feed on the host plant, thanks to special suction cups, but they also have green leaves. At the beginning of their growing season, they are able to develop independently, but over time they need nutrition from cultivated plants, otherwise they die.

The most common semi-parasitic weeds are rattle, toothed and eyebright. Thus, before how to destroy these weeds in the garden, you will already know their development life cycle.

Non-parasitic weeds differ from the two previous groups in that they can grow and develop independently. At the same time, they are divided into juvenile (one- and two-year-old) and perennial. Reproduction of the former occurs at the expense of seeds, and their life expectancy is no more than two years.


Weed-Free Garden Secrets

Secret # 1. Work with your head, not your hands. We have all heard that "a bad head does not give rest to his hands," so the first secret involves a smart approach to organizing the garden space.

Immediately stop weeding areas of the garden that are not occupied by cultivation of crops. The release of labor will be about 75%. In addition, we suggest that you stop digging and plowing paths and other free areas if they are not useful.

Cucumbers covered with straw mulch

Work only where your crops grow, and cover the rest of the garden with a layer of mulch: chopped leaves, straw and wood shavings. For example, in our garden, a layer of wood chips mulch is

Free shavings mulching eliminated 99.9% of all weeds in these areas. Once a year we fill mulch gaps, repair gaps. Previously, we spent all our free time weeding, but now the time savings are evident.

Every time you stir a layer of mulch, along with it you will disrupt the root system of weeds, preventing them from taking root in the soil layer.

Secret number 2. Eliminate bare soil from circulation. The second secret flows smoothly from the secret of the first - the soil must work, or be covered with a layer of mulch. If the planting of cultivated plants is not planned on the site, for example, in the crop rotation cycle, then it is necessary to sow the free space with siderates: typhon, rye or rape.

The beds are covered with rye even in winter. Photo: Old World Garden Farms


Garden and vegetable garden: care features

The wide range of available information on gardening and horticulture enables everyone to find a hobby in this area. And it doesn't matter if you take care of whole fields, flower beds or flower pots - enjoying your favorite activity in the fresh air will give you untold pleasure.

Gardening is a separate branch of crop production. These include:

  • fruit growing - growing fruit and berry crops
  • gardening - gardening and farming for the purpose of picking vegetables
  • ornamental gardening - growing flowers, shrubs and ornamental trees. It is widely used in landscape design.


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