How to grow a watermelon on your site if you do not live in the tropics?

 How to grow a watermelon on your site if you do not live in the tropics?

The watermelon is native to the deserts of southern Africa, which makes it highly resistant to heat, dry air, and soil poverty. Of all the melons, it is the least whimsical to the quality of soils. On the contrary, it works best on sandy loam steppe chernozems, light soils with good water permeability. But its advantages are dictated by the growing conditions: a lot of sun, lightness of the soil, dry air, moisture of the soil during the period of growth of lashes, flowering, formation of ovaries.

Agrotechnics

The humidity of the environment is perhaps the most difficult to overcome for the melon grower in order to grow the fruit of the proper quality.

Video about growing watermelon

You can shelter from cold weather, excessive dryness of the earth can be prevented by proper watering. But if you live in a wet climate, then you have to work hard to grow a good striped fruit. You can't do without a greenhouse. Think in advance how you will protect the crop from crows. Pick up early and tasty varieties, preferably locally sourced. Now let's take a closer look at everything in order to understand how to grow watermelons in the country.

A few words about the substrate

Take care of the quality of the soil in advance, in the fall of the year preceding planting. Especially if your future melon is located where predominantly heavy soils prevail: loam or peat boggy soils. It is necessary to dig up the ground well, while simultaneously removing the roots of the weeds. Best of all, even with two bayonets of a shovel. Mix heavy soil with sand at the rate of two buckets per square meter. Thus, we bring the lightness, water permeability of the soil in accordance with the requirements of the agricultural technology of melons. It is advisable to take the gray river sand, the red building sand contains a lot of iron, which can excessively oxidize the earth.

In the photo watermelon

Speaking of acidity: growing watermelons works best on a substrate with a neutral acidity reaction. You can find out what soil acidity you have either by measuring it with a Ph-indicator or Ph-meter, or by the plants growing in your garden. The first case, of course, gives more accurate results. To do this, purchase an indicator in a pharmacy or a chemical store (a universal indicator is best suited). Or buy a Ph-meter in the same place. You take the soil from the place where the future melon was laid. Dilute it with water, look at the color of the indicator or the reading of the device.

Indicator plants will roughly tell you about the condition of the soil in your area. For example, chamomile, wheatgrass, bindweed, cornflowers and clover prefer to grow on soils with neutral acidity. Horsetails, plantains, mosses will tell us that the environment is too acidic. On the contrary, poppy, mustard indicate an alkaline reaction of the earth.

The acidity of the soil is eliminated by liming - adding a lime solution to the soil, it is obtained by mixing lime for whitewashing with water. Alkaline leads to a neutral indicator by adding acidifying agents: peat, needles, sawdust of coniferous species. Sowing leguminous crops well restores the normal acidity of the soil.

Photo of a watermelon in the garden

We also remember that it is highly undesirable to plant watermelons in the place of the former growth of cucumbers, other melons: pumpkins or melons. Such precautions are associated with the threat of the introduction of diseases: fusarium (in common parlance, wilting of leaves), peronosporosis (downy mildew). Also, you can not plant it after nightshades. The crop rotation for these crops should be up to 5-6 years. The optimal predecessor will be corn, sunflower, legumes: beans, peas, lupine. Also, watermelon fruits are well poured when sown after perennial cereals.

We fertilize the ground at the same time when we dug it up, in the fall. Together with deep mixing of the soil layers, we add a standard set of macronutrients: phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium. Superphosphates are added in an amount of thirty grams per square meter. Potassium sulfate is applied at a concentration of twenty grams per meter. Nitrogen fertilizers are added in very small doses in autumn.

It is better to apply them in the spring and preferably together with organic dressings. Otherwise, you run the risk of dramatically increasing the nitrate content in your fruits. The presence of magnesium in the soil contributes to high yields. We also add trace elements together with the autumn digging. It is best to use complex liquid mineral dressings containing molybdenum, iron, selenium, and manganese, which are immediately necessary for melon.

In the photo, watermelons

Pay attention to organic fertilizers, especially those containing humic acids or effective microorganisms. Population of the soil with useful microflora will lead to a sharp jump in the digestibility of the mineral supplements introduced further by plants. This will noticeably affect the yield of future melons.

Landing

The greatest threat to northern watermelon farming is late spring frosts. There are several ways to avoid this.

First, you can grow seedlings. The advantage of this method: gain in time. when the threat of frost has passed, we are already planting young seedlings that have formed several leaves. The downside is that watermelons have a very delicate root system. they do not like transplantation very much. It is ideal to grow them in peat pots, then the plant is planted without removing it from the pot, which gradually dissolves with the soil, giving additional feeding.

But even with this type of planting, for some time the seedlings do not grow under stress, yielding to the sown ones. In addition, planted watermelons are more tender, painful compared to ground ones, and are more susceptible to various fungal summer ills.

Photo of a watermelon

Secondly, spring sowing under cover. It can be either a foil greenhouse or a full-fledged greenhouse. The greenhouse is most often used only for frost protection. Upon reaching long watermelon lashes, the shelter is removed in the summer. How to grow a watermelon in a greenhouse? To save space, the whips are launched vertically. Plants cling to vertical supports with antennae.

It is important to keep the flowering greenhouses open during the day to allow insect access. When the fruits reach the size of an orange, they must be laid in nets and suspended from transverse greenhouse supports. Greenhouses are advisable where there is a humid, cloudy summer. The microclimate created inside by combining dry air with regular watering will be ideal for minke whales.

If you are worried about spring frosts. And the summer promises to be hot and relatively dry, then there is no reason to build a greenhouse. It is enough to get by with temporary greenhouse shelters.

And you can combine these two methods. Sow directly into the ground and speed up maturation, bypassing the threat of spring frosts. This is the so-called Korean ridge. We take a wide, very dense transparent film. We make small holes, no more than five centimeters in diameter. Punching step - half a meter in a row. Leave the distance between the rows two meters. Preparing the ground. It is advisable to clean it well from weed roots. We fertilize and shed well. At a distance of two meters from each other we make small earthen ramparts, about a third of a meter high.

In the photo watermelon

To further facilitate our summer care, we bury an irrigation system in the shafts. This can be a simple perforated hose or special drip tapes designed to continuously receive moisture from each bush.

We lay the film so that the rows with holes lay along the crests of the earthen ramparts. We dig in along the edges. We plant two pre-soaked seeds in the holes. We close each hole with a glass jar with the neck down, pressing it slightly into the soil. She will create greenhouse conditions for seed germination. You can also use large plastic bottles with cut necks and bottom up. Under the film, the soil will quickly warm up in the spring, without cooling down at night and without losing moisture. Earthen rolls provide maximum warming up under the film.

The seeds will quickly pick up, from the two we remove the weaker sprout. Soon they will be cramped under the cans' shelter. It is best to calculate the sowing time so that they are one month ahead of the average date of the last spring frost in your area. Then, as soon as the seedling forms a sufficient green mass, it is already possible to remove the can cover without fear of the threat of frostbite of the leaves. Most often this is the last decade of April.

Photo of watermelons in the garden

Closer to June, not only watermelons, but also weeds, which remained under the film, begin to grow vigorously. To avoid breaking the film and disturbing the soil microclimate, we fill all the aisles with a large layer of mulch: needles, sawdust, straw. Without sunlight, the weeds will wither away. And the soil will normally warm up under a large layer of mulching material.

We produce all dressings in liquid form, filling everything in the holes from where our watermelon lashes grow. By organizing an irrigation system in the spring, we deprive ourselves of even this need, everything is delivered immediately to the roots. Sometimes you can do without a ridge, level the soil. Then the care becomes even easier, although the spring warming up will be less.

Care

Formation is important, especially when the northern summer is short. After the formation of the sixth sheet, we pinch the lash. This stimulates flowering. We feed in the spring with an equal amount of phosphate and nitrogen fertilizers. When the fruit reaches the size of an orange, we exclude nitrogen fertilizers, increase the proportion of potash fertilizers and microelements. To enhance the growth of fruits, pinch the lash with several leaves above it.

We protect melon from fungal diseases. Proper watering will be sufficient for these purposes. That is, pour at the root, do not wet the leaves. It is also advisable to exclude the contact of the lashes with the ground, cover it with mulch. Then the plant will not pick up the spores stored on the ground.

Photo of watermelon

We water our melon regularly, abundantly. From the emergence of seedlings, throughout the time the watermelon grows. When pouring the fruits, we reduce the watering, otherwise they may crack. We protect the future harvest from birds, especially from crows. Often left unattended, melons can lose their entire crop in just a few minutes. Place scarecrows or cover the fruits from birds. You can bury them with earth. Can be put into boxes or other containers. When the leg of our striped berry begins to dry out, this will mean that it is ripe. It can be ripped off.

How to grow a watermelon at home

Now a few words about apartment melon growing.

    Video about watermelons on the windowsill

  1. We take a container for planting the size of a bucket.
  2. We prepare the substrate. Three equal parts of meadow humus, dung humus, sand. We deacidify with a small amount of lime.
  3. We water with complex fertilizers: organic and inorganic, containing microelements.
  4. We sow three or four seeds. We water, wait for the emergence of seedlings.
  5. We leave the strongest sprout.
  6. A support for the future stem is stuck into the bucket, about a meter.
  7. When the lash of the plant forms the fifth or sixth leaf, it is pinched
  8. With a daylight shorter than 12 hours, artificial lighting is used
  9. We pollinate artificially.
  10. Leave no more than two fruits on each plant.
  11. When the fruits reach the size of a chicken egg, we put them in nets and tie them to a support.
  12. We fertilize and water in the same way as in gardening.

Photo of growing watermelon on the balcony

Thanks to artificial lighting, you can grow striped sweets at home whenever you want, even in summer, even in winter. Homemade watermelons are small, but thin-crust.


How to plant and grow wolf aconite in the country

Aconite is a plant known to many summer residents. It is distinguished by its spectacular appearance, beautiful flowering and easy maintenance. Although this flower is considered poisonous, its attractiveness does not diminish in any way. There are many varieties of aconite in the world, but they all have a long, curly stem and bright, lush blooming flowers with an unusual shape. The plant will look great not only in the garden, but will also be a wonderful background in any flower garden. Aconite, planting and care in the open field for which it does not require a lot of effort and time, even novice summer residents can grow it.

Aconite - planting and care in the open field


Onions on greens

As soon as the snow melts, green sprouts begin to hatch in the beds. These are green onions that summer residents grow on a feather. In terms of taste, it is not inferior to feathers from an ordinary onion, but it rises earlier. Most feather onion companies provide a greenhouse environment for growth and development. An ordinary person is unlikely to be able to grow such an onion, and therefore will have to look for an alternative. The indisputable leader in yield, cold resistance and taste is the onion. It is also called a seven-year plan: it can be grown in one place for 4-7 years (depending on the number of dressings, type of soil). It is he who "wakes up" along with the snowdrops and disappears from the beds after the first frost. In just one season, you can get 4-5 harvests of this amazing product. The most delicious onion grows in early spring. The harvest in July will be harsh. Autumnal taste differs little from spring. This plant does not like heat, which inevitably affects the taste.

Seeds are sown in early spring, when the snow is just melting from the fields and the ground thaws a little. For several years you can not worry about green onions: you need top dressing, weeding and ... that's all. No transfers. Although practice shows that summer residents plant plants to increase the yield.

The plant does not produce bulbs and must not be uprooted. Enough cutting. And then in a month or two a new crop will ripen.


Lavandula cultivars and varieties

Today there are more than 45 types of lavender. But for the design of summer cottages and gardens, the following types are usually used:

  • The most common type is considered narrow-leaved lavender or as it is also called real english (Lavandula angustifolia, L. officinalis)

This variety requires virtually no maintenance and is frost-resistant. If properly cared for, it grows up to one meter in height and reaches the same size in diameter.

A new variety meets dwarf lavender, whose size does not exceed 30 cm. It has small narrow leaves, gray-green hue. This species begins to bloom in June and fills the garden with its aroma for a month.

The most popular and common varieties:

As you can see, real lavender can be found in the most unpredictable and unique guises.

  • French lavender or lavender broadleaf (Lavandula latifolia)

This type laid the foundation for all decorative varieties. It is characterized by long bracts with 3 inflorescences of a wide variety of shades. This species begins to bloom in May. The only drawback of broadleaf is the strong and rather unpleasant odor emanating from it.

  • Lavandin, Hybrid or Dutch Lavender (Lavandula intermedia)

A hybrid based on broadleaf and English lavender. It differs from other species in that it has very large inflorescences and very narrow silvery leaves. Its height reaches 2 m.

The most popular varieties:

This lavender is used to create essential oils.

  • Lavender sugly (Lavandula dentata)

A plant variety that loves the sun's rays very much, and this is what caused this species to be used only as a houseplant in our country. It has large blue flowers and soft silvery leaves. One of the most popular varieties is RoyalCrownreleasing purple inflorescences.

  • Petiolate lavender (Lavandula pedunculata)

It is an ornamental variety characterized by a strong aroma and unusual deep purple buds. This species can be found in Spain, Portugal, Morocco and Turkey. Its height does not exceed 50 cm. Of course, petiolate can also be grown in Russia, but for this it must be planted in a pot, which will allow it to be brought into a warm room with the onset of winter.

  • Stehad lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

Almost all flower growers liked this look, because with the onset of heat, it pleases those around it with its inflorescences twice. The first flowering begins in March and lasts until June, the second time the bush pleases the owners with flowers at the end of August.

  • Lavender green (Lavandula viridis)

It differs from other species in greenish-yellow flowers and leaves. Differs in particular persistence during dry periods, grows in Portugal and Madrid.

  • Woolly lavender (Lavandula lanata)

It got this name because of the thick layer of villi on its leaves. It has long, spike-shaped inflorescences of purple color.


Do-it-yourself garden and vegetable garden are not like everyone else: interesting ideas


Consider how to decorate a garden and a vegetable garden with your own hands, not like everyone else: interesting ideas and recommendations from experienced dreamers and creative personalities - join, it's so interesting! So you set yourself the goal of bringing beauty and coziness to your site, and immediately the question is - what can be applied, what will be used for decoration, what can you adapt to fantasy in order to surprise guests, please the children, and so that the eye can admire? After all, done with one's own hand, everything is much more sincere and more pleasantly perceived. Let's look at some ideas that will help you improve your garden, and after a while, applying our tips, you will enjoy the first amazing results and rave reviews from your family and friends. Let's get started?

How to start the registration of the site?

First you need to look around, examine everything carefully (our eye does not always notice everything and covers the entire space, missing details). Now sit in a hammock, close your eyes and dream - how you would like your site to look, what the dimensions are, what has already been planted, how you can plan the place where you would like to place what. Maybe you see a gazebo with a barbecue for relaxing with friends in your dreams. Maybe the lawns, flower beds, which loomed in the mind, a pond among the garden and a fountain, what kind of interesting lights come in dreams, arches, paved paths, fabulous sculptures among the bushes?

We are looking for materials for design and ideas at the same time

Now, now that the picture has already become clearer and clearer, you can start looking for ideas among all the stuff that is in the bins or is intended to be thrown away. You have no idea how much you can find to translate your ideas. And as the search progresses, new fantasies will emerge that you can easily realize. Did you see an old trough behind the house that you had been planning to throw away for a long time? Great, you can make a luxurious flower garden from it! Choose a place for it, paint it up, make it bright, fill the ground, plant flowers beautifully - the first decoration is ready! It will be interesting to see - flowers for the garden and vegetable garden perennials photo with names.


Chunks unnecessary from a sawn tree are lying around - great, using a bit of imagination and putting your hands, they can quickly turn into a garden bench, paved paths, curbs or a carved fairytale hero.

Unnecessary stones of all sorts of different heaps - find a use for them! Make such a well or adapt its imitation for a flower garden - how beautiful it looks!

Even better - make such a non-trivial beauty with the help of a grid-lattice, all the guests will be delighted, and you will be happy from contemplating such a flower garden.

Do you want to beautifully break up the beds on the site so that greens and spicy herbs can be grown, and weeds so as not to spoil the view, and even there are a lot of branches after the saw cut, here is a beautiful idea for you - and the garden grows, and the beauty of the landscape is amazing! It's nice to go to such a garden, and you will want to tinker with joy on it, from aesthetic beauty inspiration will come to other fantasy feats! By the way, learn how to grow a watermelon in the suburbs in the open field.

A couple of bags of bottles have gathered - you can perfectly apply them in the design of beds or flower beds, knocking off the bottoms and digging them into the ground. Before that, of course, draw a plan of how you would like to see these same beds. Do not be afraid of intricate figures, create, you will receive clues from the inside in the course of creativity. And how beautiful it will be, and how worthy the seemingly useless glass bottles will come in handy! And you can easily use plastic ones - cut out rings from them, cutting off the bottom and top, cutting in half, dig in along the perimeter of the garden, or house, or garden bed, fill it with earth and plant multi-colored bushy flowers - beauty and that's all!

The old chairs behind the house are lying around - they can also be used to find, with literally a bit of imagination and a creative approach! For example, like this - in the form of flower pots!

Found unnecessary board waste that has no use - use it by arranging such a flower basket! Read also: lilies planting and care in the open field.

Old shoes, a leaky hammock, unnecessary pots, and all sorts of things that would need to be thrown away can be used, and your garden-garden will sparkle with new colors. It will become homely cozy, creative, interesting - and you will be happy to come back here, finding new ideas, and embodying your plans in life almost free of charge, and without much effort. Good luck and new ideas!


Lawn care

  • buy seeds with a stock, the grass does not always sprout evenly
  • Water your lawn regularly, but no more than several times a week. In hot and dry weather daily
  • watch the height of the grass. First cut at 7 cm.Cut every week if possible
  • fertilize your lawn regularly. BUT not freshly cut!

You are now ready for your dream lawn. I hope my advice will be useful. Have you already sowed or are you just going? What was the result? What new have you learned from the article? Share your experience in the comments.

If the text turned out to be useful, share it with your friends on social networks. Subscribe to the newsletter and stay up to date with the latest news.

See you in a new article!

Finally, watch a video for beginners and experienced gardeners:


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Everything important how to grow watermelons

It has become common for gardeners to grow watermelon. The process is simple, but it has certain difficulties that must be taken into account when growing (the plant may die even before flowering, the fruits do not always grow tasty, and so on). More details on how to grow a watermelon with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

The choice of a variety should be approached with special responsibility. For the middle zone of the Russian Federation, it is advisable to choose only early-ripening varieties, and there is no need to chase after huge fruits in this matter - such watermelons realize their potential by 100% only when grown in the south of the country. Be sure to read the description of the variety on the package - it contains information about the duration of ripening (plant ovaries should ripen as quickly as possible).

On a note! Some qualities can be neglected when choosing a variety. First of all, it is large-fruited and transportable. Also, do not pay attention to the color and shape of the fruit - this is only necessary in those cases when you grow watermelons not for yourself, but for sale. The most common varieties of watermelon: "Kai" "Sugar baby" "Ataman F1" "Ultra early" "Stokes" "Ogonyok" "Moscow Region Charleston F1" "Yarilo" "Krimstar F1" "Leader" "Pink champagne F1" "A gift to the north of F1" ... This is just a small part of the varieties that can be grown not only in the south of the country, but most often people choose them. Having decided on the type of watermelon, you can start growing.

How to grow a watermelon outdoors. Not everyone knows, but watermelons can be grown without seedlings, but with seeds, already in a permanent place. Often, seedlings are used only for further transplantation into greenhouses, so that the watermelon ripens. But if you are growing a watermelon in a garden plot, then you can safely skip the stage with seedlings and sow seeds.

Growing watermelon seedlings The planting process is divided into several preparatory stages to obtain a good harvest. Let's consider each of them separately. Seed preparation After choosing a suitable variety, wrap the seeds in a cloth bandage and place them on a shallow plate, pouring them with a pre-prepared solution of potassium permanganate. The solution should be light pink and warm. After that, put the saucer with the seeds in a plastic bag and tie it up, taking in a little air. Transfer the seed plate to a warm room (at least + 20 ° C). Change the solution daily and ventilate the bag. After 2-3 days, the seeds should hatch, after which they will be ready for planting in the ground.

Watermelon Seeds Soil Preparation It is very important to prepare the land before planting the watermelon. This is an integral part of growing, without which you are unlikely to get a good harvest. The prepared soil should provide plants with nutrients throughout the entire growth period, it should be protected from strong winds, and also well lit.

Preparing the soil for planting

Clearing and leveling Watermelon, as well as other melons and gourds, requires loose, fertile and light soil. It's great if your suburban area has sandy loam or sandy soil, which you enriched with rotted humus in the autumn. If we talk about suitable predecessors of watermelons, then these are certainly tomatoes, potatoes, cruciferous vegetables, as well as legumes. For the best result, it is advisable to prepare the beds in advance and fertilize the soil. To do this, 1 sq. m of the site, you need to add 20 g of potash fertilizers, 40 g of superphosphate and 30 g of ammonium sulfate. This combination of mineral fertilizers will significantly accelerate the growth of the watermelon, as a result of which you can enjoy juicy and sweet fruits a little earlier.

Fertilization Sowing watermelon seeds The process of planting watermelon seeds is simple and practically does not differ from planting any other crop. Table. Step by step instructions for sowing watermelon seeds. Steps, photo Description Step one

Start sowing watermelon seeds in early May as it is a very thermophilic plant. Otherwise, if you do this earlier, the plant will greatly slow down in development. Take out the previously prepared seed material that has already germinated. Step two

Also, you should have a planting mixture at the ready, consisting of rotted humus, ash, mineral fertilizers and peat (the composition may vary, since there are many different recipes for preparing the mixture). Step three

Dig a large watermelon hole and fill it with a little water. Step four

Step Four Pour the prepared fertilizer and humus mixture into the hole. Level gently with a hoe and water. Step five

Place at least 5 seeds in the hole (5 cm deep) and sprinkle it all over with earth. The soil layer should be approximately 4 cm thick. Gently tamp the soil so that the seeds are not blown away or injured. Repeat the procedure for each well.

Watermelon hole in the open field Important! First, you need to sow 5-6 seeds in each hole, but over time, when they begin to develop, leave one plant in the hole. Follow-up care Without providing full care, including feeding and watering, it is impossible to grow a watermelon in the garden. The juiciness of the fruits directly depends on the level of humidity, but you should not overdo it with this matter, because you cannot then feast on the sugar pulp of sweet berries, which everyone loves so much.Conditionally, follow-up care can be divided into 4 stages: watering, feeding, trimming lashes and destroying pests. Let's consider each of them separately. Watering When growing watermelons in a summer cottage, it is advisable to use drip irrigation systems. This will allow for regular feeding of crops.

The best option is drip irrigation.

For the most correct and accurate application of fertilizers, an agrochemical analysis of the soil is simply necessary. Watermelons need abundant, but rare watering, especially in a hot season with a lack of natural moisture - remember this! For the comfortable growth of watermelons, the soil moisture level should be at least 80%. If the site is located on sandy soil, then the beds need to be watered more often due to poor moisture retention. Water clay soils and chernozem less often. After the berries begin to ripen and they become poured, reduce the number of watering, and after a few weeks, stop them altogether. Top dressing Top dressing of watermelons grown in a summer cottage consists of three procedures, each of which must be performed subject to certain conditions: at least 2 liters of liquid fertilizers must be per plant. After 7 days from the moment of planting the seeds, it is necessary to regularly water the plants with a special solution prepared with your own hands (all the ingredients and their proportions were described above).

Watermelons need to be fertilized in a timely manner After the lashes on the plants begin to grow actively, you need to make a second feeding of the watermelons, but this time the amount of potash and phosphorus fertilizers should be half as much. When the formation of the ovaries begins, you need to carry out another top dressing, only with a different composition. Mix 10 liters of water, 35 g of potassium salts, 10 g of superphosphate and 20 g of ammonium sulfate. Apply the prepared nutrient mixture to the prepared furrows, which should be 15 cm away from the plant bushes. The amount of nitrogen fertilizers should be reduced due to the likelihood of their accumulation in the pulp of watermelons. In addition, such measures can provoke the maturation of the plant, and not a set of green mass.

Fertilizer for watermelons, melons and pumpkins Pruning lashes During a short and not warm enough summer, some watermelon fruits do not have time to ripen, although the bush still spends energy on them, which could be distributed to other berries that will really ripen. Therefore, each plant should have no more than 5 watermelons. Delete all unnecessary items.

Watermelon formation scheme Important! When growing watermelons, you need to remember that female flowers are formed on the main lash of the plant - you cannot touch them, but remove the side lashes. Compliance with all recommendations will allow you to get a harvest in the second half of August.

Pollination of watermelon flowers Pest control The melon aphid that appears in June can create many problems for watermelons. Living on the underside of the leaves, it sucks out all the life's juices from the plant, as a result of which the leaves wrinkle and dry. During the summer, aphids can give 2-3 generations. At first, the pests live only on weeds, but with the onset of June, females move to watermelons, remaining there until the beginning of autumn. The melon aphid lays its eggs on the weeds, which hibernate there.

Melon or cotton aphids (Aphis gossypii) To protect watermelons from aphids, it is advisable to regularly weed the beds from various weeds, as well as mow the areas located next to the grown watermelons. If you notice pests, immediately treat the plants with a special decoction or infusion made from celandine, garlic or onion husks. If these remedies do not help and the deciduous system of plants is severely damaged, then strong chemical preparations can be used - for example, "INTA-VIR", "Karbofos", "Iskra".

In addition to aphids, watermelons can be subject to various diseases, such as sclerotinia, bacteriosis, copperhead, various types of rot, and so on. For treatment, you need to prepare a decoction of horsetail. To do this, pour 1 liter of water with 1 tbsp. l. plants and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Alternatively, you can use another remedy - milk mixed with iodine. If the plants have been heavily infested, use Cuprosat or Oxychloride. The development of fusarium wilting can lead to the fact that the plant will die in a few days. The spread of infection occurs through plant debris, seeds or soil.

We fight diseases in watermelons As a prophylaxis of a watermelon from the onset of diseases, it is advisable to treat the seeds with a solution of "Baktofit" for 3 hours before planting. If some plants were nevertheless damaged by an ailment, then they need to be destroyed in order to protect healthy ones from infection, which, in turn, need to be fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

"Baktofit" Harvesting Fruit harvesting is the final stage in the process of growing watermelons. It is not recommended to rush with this matter, because many fruits that have reached large sizes are still unripe. Ripe tomatoes can be identified by a change in the color of the fruit; when growing zucchini and cucumbers, it is important not to be late in picking, otherwise vegetables may lose their useful properties. But when should watermelons be harvested? When planting early ripening varieties, you can get a crop not earlier than mid-August. Mass harvesting during this period is not carried out, it is necessary to determine the ripeness of the berry by external signs. First of all, look at the bracts and antennae - if they are dry, then the watermelon can be harvested. Also, with a light tapping of your fingers on the berry, deaf sounds should be heard. The combination of these signs indicates the ripeness of the fruit.

Checking the ripeness of the watermelon If you are growing watermelons for further transportation and storage, it is better to pick the berries a couple of days before ripening. They will then mature in a warm and dry room. At the same time, watermelons will not lose their qualities.

Self-grown watermelons do not become boring!


Watch the video: How to Pick a Sweet Watermelon