Winter Salad Greens: Tips On Growing Greens In Winter

Winter Salad Greens: Tips On Growing Greens In Winter

By: Liz Baessler

Garden-fresh vegetables in winter. It’s the stuff of dreams. You can make it a reality, though, with some crafty gardening. Some plants, unfortunately, just can’t survive in the cold. If you get cold winters, for instance, you’re not going to be picking tomatoes in February. You may, however, be picking spinach, lettuce, kale, and any other leafy greens you like. If you’re growing in the winter, salad greens are the way to go. Keep reading to learn how to grow greens over winter.

Greens to Grow Over Winter

Growing greens in winter is all about keeping them and the soil beneath them warm. This can be achieved a few ways, depending upon just how cold it is. Garden fabric works wonders when it comes to keeping greens safe and warm in cool weather. When the temperature drops, protect your winter salad greens further with a garden quilt.

If growing greens in winter to you means all winter long, then you’ll want to switch to plastic, ideally held up with a structure called a hoop house. Build a structure made of plastic piping (or metal, if you’re expecting heavy snowfall) over your winter salad greens. Stretch over the structure thin, translucent plastic and secure it in place with clamps.

Include a flap on opposite ends that can be easily opened and closed. On sunny days, even in the dead of winter, you’ll need to open the flaps to allow air circulation. This keeps the space inside from overheating and, importantly, prevents buildup of excessive moisture and disease or insect infestation.

How to Grow Greens in the Winter

Greens to grow over winter are often greens that germinate and thrive in cool temperatures. Keeping them cool in the summer is just as important as keeping them warm in the winter. If you’re looking to start your winter salad greens in late summer, you may want to start them indoors, away from hot temperatures outside.

Once the temperatures begin to drop, transplant them outside. Beware though- plants really do need ten hours of sunlight per day to grow. Starting your plants early in the fall ensures they’ll be big enough to harvest from in the winter, when they won’t necessarily be able to replenish harvested leaves.

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Winter Gardening: 22 Vegetables You Can Grow in the Off-Season

Winter is a tough season for growing plants, especially in vegetable gardens. But you don’t have to wait for the spring or summer to plant your garden: winter gardening is easy with the right varieties. We’ve rounded up 22 of the best vegetables (and herbs) for you to grow long before spring rolls back around.

Seriously, it’s not that hard to grow salad all winter long. Enjoy fresh, tender, delicious salad greens indoors in recycled plastic containers under a couple of inexpensive fluorescent shop lights. It’s fun to grow edible plants—plus, no weeds or pests! Here’s how to use grow lights for salad in winter.

Growing Lettuce Under Lights

Last year, I purchased grow lights to start seedings in early spring. They’ve never been used in winter so growing salad in winter is a perfect match!

If you don’t have grow lights, you just need cheap florescent shop lights. My fixture is suspended by chains and S-hooks from the ceiling of my living-room alcove. (You could also put the grow lights in an upstairs bedroom since heat rises.)

It is not necessary to invest in the very intense lighting systems that hydroponic growers use, because vegetable and herb seedlings live indoors for but a few short weeks, and regular florescent lights are ample for their needs. Besides, once seedlings are up and growing, gradually exposing them to more sunlight is the best way to prepare them for life in the garden.

Ideally, you want the light to be less than 2 inches from the tops of plants, but some seedlings gain height faster than others. Raising the slower growers by placing them atop books or boxes is often the easiest way to get them closer to the light they crave.

For planting containers, I used some of the recycled polystyrene (both foam and transparent) containers I collect for starting my spring transplants, filling them with a mixture of half soilless sterile potting soil suitable for seeds and half compost.

Photo: Margaret Boyles

Which Salad Greens To Plant?

The simple answer: almost any type of salad or cooking greens—the faster-growing the better—and leafy herbs.

During my first experiments, I mixed together seeds left over from my spring–summer garden, dividing them into three categories with similar germination and growth habits:

  • Oak-leaf lettuce and various leaf lettuces work well for cut-and-come-again harvesting where you can remove a few leaves every week, extending production over a longer period:
  • Kale, arugula, and leafy Asian brassicas (bok choi, mizuna, tatsoi, etc.)
  • Spinach, chard, and beets (for greens).
  • Arugula is always good to add a delicious flavor to salad mixes.

I also planted a few seeds each of basil, parsley, and cilantro in smaller, separate containers.

If you’re buying new seeds for winter planting, I suggest one of the fast-growing mesclun or braising mixes (also called stir-fry mixes) sold by most seed companies.

I scattered the seeds thickly across the soil surface, covered them with a bit of compost, and watered them well with a small watering can.

Credit: Margaret Boyles

Care and Harvest

Once the seeds germinated, I turned the lights on when I got up each morning and shut them off around supper time. I watered them every couple of days, when the top of the planting medium felt dry. Every week to 10 days, I watered with a weak solution of seaweed and fish emulsion (available at garden stores).

It’s important to keep the seedlings well watered and use high-quality compost or admendments to supply ample nutrients.

Equally important is thinning out the plants. I started thinning the plants as soon as they’d developed two or three sets of leaves, about three weeks after germination. I cut out any plants that were closer than an inch apart, snipping the plants just above soil level (to avoid disturbing neighboring seedlings), rinsing them, and tossing them into soups and cabbage salads.

As the plants grew bigger, I harvested the outer leaves and left the rest to grow. Alternatively, you can clip greens from throughout the whole container with fingernail scissors, making sure to leave the growing tips to produce another crop.

Be sure to raise your lights so that the plants do not get scorched. As a general guide, lights should be kept 4 inches above the highest leaf.

After 5 weeks of growth, six to eight containers of greens began producing robust, two-person salads three or four times a week for about 6 weeks, as well as quite a few handfuls of greens to toss into our frequent winter soups.

Photo: Margaret Boyles

By the way, producing winter salad greens under lights makes a wonderful project for children of any age. Great science project possibilities, too.

Plus, there aren’t any weeds or critters eating your greens!

The alcove where I keep my containers is also home to my stationary bike, which I ride almost every day or evening all winter long. Good food and good exercise: What a combo!

Winterkill in the crosshairs: Preparing greens for winter

By Sam Bauer, Brian Horgan, Ph.D. and Lindsey Hoffman, Ph.D.

Editor’s note: This is the first of two articles by the authors on turf survival during winter.

Photo 1: An ice melting study at the University of Minnesota’s Turfgrass Research, Outreach and Education Center, conducted this last winter. These manufactured ice blocks were treated with 20 different salt and solar absorption products to evaluate ice melting potential. More detail on this study can be found at:

The 2013-2014 winter has gone down in the record books as one of the worst. Depending on your location, conditions may have included severe and prolonged freezing temperatures (aka: polar vortex), temperature fluctuations above and below freezing, excessive rainfall followed by freezing temperatures and significant snowfall events from December through March.

With this in mind, it is important to understand the multitude of factors contributing to winter injury and the cultural practices that can be implemented to minimize damage.

The term “winter injury” is a catchall term that refers to damage caused by a number of different factors including crown hydration, anoxia and gas buildup, desiccation, low temperature fungi and freezing temperatures.

These factors may act alone or in concert causing damage to plants, and are collectively recognized as winterkill. Regardless of the type or number of stresses affecting the plant, the occurrence of winterkill is directly attributed to death of the turfgrass crown.

Management strategies should be implemented throughout the year to promote crown survival during and following winter months. This involves minimizing or eliminating conditions that would favor the development of stresses such as crown hydration and anoxia. Consequently, preparing for winter injury should be considered a year-long process that encompasses a number of different cultural practices to promote turfgrass health.

Getting winter ready

Winter hardiness of turfgrasses is achieved through the process of cold acclimation, which is induced by decreases in temperature and light during the fall. During this period of time, turfgrass plants undergo physiological and metabolic changes that allow them to become more tolerant to winter stresses. The process of cold acclimation is influenced by plant genetics (such as the species or cultivar) in combination with environmental conditions (such as temperature and moisture).

Along with cold acclimation, temperature fluctuations during winter and early spring months (deacclimation) can also influence the winter injury potential of the turfgrass. Largely, cold acclimation capacity and resistance to early cold deacclimation is controlled by genetics however, there is potential to increase both of these factors through management strategies to ultimately reduce overall winter injury.

Because of the high degree of species variability that exists on putting greens, turfgrass species becomes the major factor influencing winter injury. For example, creeping bentgrass has excellent winter hardiness compared to annual bluegrass.

Photo 2: Sod cutters are useful in opening up channels for water flow off putting surfaces prior to winter. Water will often back up at the green/collar interface, therefore extending these channels through the collar and into the green can be important.

Research has shown that differences in winter injury potential between these two species is associated with enhanced cold acclimation capacity of creeping bentgrass along with increased susceptibility of annual bluegrass to early cold deacclimation (Thompkins et al., 2000, 2004 Hoffman et al., 2014). Therefore, one strategy to minimize winter damage would be to promote creeping bentgrass and reduce annual bluegrass populations.

In some situations this may not be an option. In addition, creeping bentgrass may still be susceptible to winter injury, depending on both plant and environmental factors. Consequently, management of annual bluegrass/creeping bentgrass golf greens should focus on promoting healthy turfgrass plants throughout the year while minimizing conditions that favor the potential for winter injury.

So let’s look at a few of the major winter stresses, along with management strategies to prepare greens for winter.

Ice, ice, baby

Crown hydration and damage from ice cover are two of the most devastating causes of winter injury on putting greens every year. Crown hydration occurs when temperatures increase, causing plants to absorb water, and results in winter injury if followed by subfreezing temperatures. As a consequence, cells rupture due to the formation of ice crystals and this is lethal for the plant. Damage may also be associated with ice formation outside of cells, causing water to move out of the cells and can cause severe dehydration and/or death of the turfgrass.

Ice cover can also be a contributor to crown hydration as ice melts and then refreezes. In addition, non-porous ice can cause anoxia and/or buildup of toxic gases, mainly CO2, and has been shown to be more injurious to annual bluegrass compared to creeping bentgrass.

Tompkins et al. (2000, 2004) studied the impact of ice encasement, ice cover and snow cover on annual bluegrass in a growth chamber and in the field. Annual bluegrass plants did not survive 90 days of ice encasement in the growth chamber, whereas creeping bentgrass survived for 150 days. In the field, death of annual bluegrass plants was observed at 75 days of ice cover with damage to creeping bentgrass detected following 90 days of ice cover. These interspecific differences in winter injury associated with crown hydration and ice cover may primarily be associated with plant genetics however, reducing overall moisture on greens prior and during winter
may help reduce the incidence of both these stresses.

Golf courses dealing with extended periods of ice cover have lessened the damage by removing or melting the ice. A current study being conducted at the University of Minnesota and Michigan State University is evaluating the ice melting potential of several standard salts, specific ice melt products and solar absorption materials. The greatest melt followed the use of black solar absorption materials (Photo 1) black substances increased surface temperatures by up to seven degrees F. Products included in the solar absorption treatments were: Milorganite (6-2-0), Sustane (5-2-10), dyed black sand, Top Cut biosolids and BioDac (paper by-product).

Phytotoxicity of these products to putting greens is also being evaluated. A more detailed explanation of this study can be found on the University of Minnesota’s Turfgrass Science website.

Photo 3: A five-inch auger bit being drilled three feet deep by staff at Medina (Minn.) G&CC to promote water infiltration in swales on native soil greens with no drainage. Channels are back-filled with pea gravel.

Let it drain

While sometimes impossible to predict and manage, surface and subsurface drainage are important for reducing injury from crown hydration or ice cover. Surface drainage is based on the architecture of the green.

Low-lying areas that hold water on the surface have the greatest potential for damage and moving water off of putting surfaces during the spring transition will have the biggest impact on survivability. As such, creating pathways and channels for water to travel is important for reducing damage (Photo 2). These areas should be established prior to winter to allow drainage as spring temperatures increase.

Swales on greens often drain poorly, which can result in excess surface moisture. Minimizing damage in these areas is much more difficult, but can be promoted by creating openings on the surface in these swales. Deep tine and core-aeration prior to winter help to alleviate damage by standing water in the spring, but the trade-off can be increased desiccation in winters that lack snow cover or in areas prone to drying.

Putting greens built on natural soils with minimal drainage will benefit from augering channels to improve water flow in these swales (Photo 3) and should be filled with pea gravel or other porous materials.

More to consider

Another important component in improving winter survivability is management of thatch and organic matter. On putting greens with thatch levels exceeding 0.25 inches, crowns may be exposed to fluctuating air temperatures during winter months. In comparison, crowns deeper in the soil profile are buffered against such rapid and sometimes extreme temperature changes. Excessive thatch and organic matter also hold moisture at the surface, leading to winter injury issues associated with crown hydration, ice cover and the snow mold pathogens.

Regular, frequent topdressing of sand-based root zones is required to reduce thatch and organic matter buildup. Sand chosen for topdressing should have a consistent particle size with the existing root zone to minimize layering. For native soil putting greens, it is practical to build up a profile of sand through several years of topdressing, and from a winter injury standpoint this is almost always an improvement.

Plant growth regulators, wetting agents and other specialty turf products all have their place when preparing putting greens for winter. Generally speaking, products that promote healthy turf throughout the growing season will also be beneficial for the plants during the cold acclimation process. No one program works for every superintendent due to site specifics and climatic variation. With that in mind, be sure to use only those products you are comfortable with and have proven successful for you in the past. Test strips are useful for evaluating new products, and untreated areas for justifying current ones.

Wetting agents are more commonly being applied in the late-fall prior to irrigation blowout. The benefits of this type of application have not yet been evaluated with research, but considering that a majority of our winter injury issues are moisture related, this is a topic worth investigating. Hydrophobic sands suffering from desiccation over winter months can potentially benefit from a late season wetting agent application, as will poorly infiltrating root zones. Adequate movement of the wetting agent into the root zone through irrigation or precipitation is necessary for this application to be successful. This research is ongoing and results will be available soon.

A holistic approach

A strong focus on the basics of putting green management is important for promoting survivability of both annual bluegrass and creeping bentgrass. Dr. James Beard may have said it best, “Cultural practices should ensure that the turf is healthy, disease-free, and well rooted as the winter season approaches,” (Beard, 1973). We have learned a lot about the physiology of winter injury since then, but our recommendations remain the same.

Balanced fertility, proper mowing heights, sharp reels and irrigation to promote rooting depth are just a handful of practices, in addition to what was already discussed, that need to become second nature in your management programs.

Winter injury of turfgrass is a complex issue that should be considered with a holistic approach. This article focused heavily on the types of damage that can occur over the winter months, as the specific type of winter injury will dictate management practices that should follow. No matter what type of winter injury you are dealing with, two main points hold true: 1) healthy turf is better able to withstand the stresses of winter, and 2) mother nature rules all. Remember these points as you prepare your putting greens for winter this year.

Sam Bauer, Brain Horgan, Ph.D., and Lindsey Hoffman, Ph.D., are at the University of Minnesota where Bauer is a turfgrass extension specialist, Horgan is an associate professor of turfgrass science and Hoffman is a postdoctoral turfgrass research scientist. Bauer can be contacted at [email protected] for more information.

Beard, James B. 1973. Turfgrass Science and Culture. Englewood Cliffs, N. J.: Prentice-Hall.
Hoffman, L., M. DaCosta, and S.J. Ebdon. 2014. Examination of cold deacclimation sensitivity of annual bluegrass and creeping bentgrass. Crop Sci. 54(1): 413-420.
Tompkins, D.K., J.B. Ross, and D.L. Moroz. 2000. Dehardening of annual bluegrass and creeping bentgrass during late winter and early spring. Agron. J. 92:5-9.
Tompkins, D. K., J.B. Ross, and D.L. Moroz. 2004. Effects of ice cover on annual bluegrass and creeping bentgrass putting greens. Crop Sci. 44(6): 2175-2179.

Photos: Erin McManus, Andrew Hollman, Sam Bauer

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How to store garden vegetables for winter

W E TALKED ABOUT storing tender ornamental plants recently, but what about garden vegetables, now that colder nights and days are not so far off? Each year I need to remind myself what stores best where—which is most of all determining what particular combination of temperature and humidity, such as cold and moist versus cool and dry, and so on.

It also takes some experimentation, since our modern homes tend to lack just the perfect place. (Oh, to have a root cellar!) But knowing the basics help us do the best job we can–and also to grow crops we are capable of storing, or only to grow enough for a shorter period in storage. How to stash homegrown garden vegetables (and which ones, including winter squash, to cure first in a warmer spot for best results):

Temperature and humidity

M ANY VEGETABLES prefer to be stored surprisingly cold, at 32 to 38 degrees F. Notable exceptions: sweet potatoes (55-60 degrees), and pumpkins and winter squash (50-55, after a week or two curing even warmer).

Many also like it humid (root vegetables and potatoes, for instance—like 90 percent or thereabouts), but others such as onions and garlic and winter squash won’t do well where humidity is so high. By the way: Home refrigerators are usually cold and dry (40°F and 50-60 percent relative humidity), says the University of Minnesota Extension, in their thorough bulletin on vegetable storage.

Various extension services and other experts, such as the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association, have extensive recommendations, often with charts to simplify things (this one’s from MOFGA, and the typos in rutabaga and all, it’s part of a comprehensive pdf):

The basics of storage

V EGETABLES AT PEAK maturity will store better than underdeveloped or over-ripe ones. Delay harvesting as long as possible, presuming it doesn’t mean the vegetable is deteriorating, or animal pests are apt to be gnawing at it. Root vegetables can enjoy a little or a lot more time in the ground if your garden is pest-free kale and collards and Brussels sprouts can stand into the frost awhile.

Harvest carefully–don’t bruise or handle things roughly, and set aside any nicked or otherwise imperfect produce to use up first. That includes immature things that might be good enough to use in a soup or other dish right now, but won’t keep. For example, I make soup from any bruised potatoes or onions whose tops stayed greenish as soon as they are dug.

Some things don’t store well no matter when you harvest—tomatoes and peppers, for instance. Freeze peppers at their peak, instead, and whole tomatoes in freezer bags, too, or cook them up into some delicious concoction like easy tomato sauce that freezes well (as do these roasted, herbed tomatoes). You can can tomatoes, of course, as well.

One more basic: There’s no substitute or remedy better than growing a storage variety in the first place. So, for instance, I eat all my ‘Ailsa Craig’ onions first (a variety that is not meant to keep) and store my ‘Patterson’ ones (a rock-hard keeper). Logical, right? Among the species of pumpkins and winter squash, those in Cucurbita maxima (including ‘Blue Hubbard,’ and ‘Lakota,’ ‘Jarrahdale,’ ‘Buttercup’ and many more) are generally the best keepers. This ‘Butternut’ from a local seed company near me was improved over many years of careful selection for storing a long time, so I grow it now. Nothing you can do to make a summer squash last all winter! You get the idea. Choose varieties at seed-shopping season with storage in mind.

Extra details by crop

F OR TEMPERATURE and humidity ranges, refer to the chart above or the one below (copyright 1996 by the University of Wisconsin), which is part of a great vegetable-storage factsheet by H.C. Harrison that also includes details about indoor storage room details, outdoor pit-style storage, and more. Some extra tips, besides the temperature and humidity particulars:

Squash and pumpkins: Though different species are better or worse keepers, the general idea: Cut fruits from the vine, leaving stems intact, after the stem is getting corky or at least woody, and the skin is hard and possibly starting to dull. Slightly immature fruits may continue to ripen off the vine, so long as they are not stemless (I leave a piece of vine attached at first, too.) Most need a week or two in a warm, dry, airy spot (about 75-85 degrees) to cure–very important, and a step not to be skipped. Don’t let fruits get cold (below 50) once cured.

Root vegetables (carrots, beets, rutabaga, parsnips, turnips): Leave in the ground as long as possible, perhaps with straw or leaves as mulch on top to insulate. Friends dig theirs gradually, well into winter, by mulching enough to keep the ground unfrozen. When you must dig, trim tops short (without removing the top of the root), cooking the bonus crop up where possible (such as beet and turnip greens). I then store these in the crisper drawers of my refrigerator for the remaining months of winter, which is not really humid enough, but I somehow make do, and the best I have to offer.

Potatoes: Harvest after vines die down, then cure at 50-60 degrees for a couple of weeks (avoiding light) before moving to cooler, humid storage (about 40F or slightly cooler). Some gardeners wrap each cured tuber in newspaper before putting them in storage bins or baskets. If they start to sprout, it’s a sign the temperature is too high.

Sweet potatoes: These are hard to store (and even harder up North, where we get fewer truly mature tubers that are ideal for keeping). Curing fresh-dug sweet potatoes will help their skins firm up, allow any nicks to heal, and also give them time to get sweeter, converting inner starches to sugars. University experts recommend 5-10 days at 80ish degrees after digging and similarly high humidity (80 or even 90 percent), before storing around 55 or 60 degrees.

Garlic and onions: I grow a year’s worth of garlic from my own “seed,” harvesting in August or thereabouts. I dry the harvest in a warm, dry spot (but not in the sun) for several weeks before trimming the roots and tops, and storing the bulbs cool, dark and airy. I also freeze some garlic and onions for use next spring and summer, when it would have begun to sprout in storage.

Herbs: I freeze mine in a variety of concoctions. How to freeze herbs.

Other crops: Refer to the charts, or better yet, click the links to the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners pdf, the Minnesota extension website, or the one from University of Wisconsin, with its added bonus of dreamy storage-room plans. Some day!

8 Greens Can be Grown In a Pot Through The Winter

Cold weather doesn’t mean you have to give up your fresh garden produce. On the contrary, winter gardeners do not have to fight summer’s bugs and plant diseases. Winter greens are great crops that will continue to supply fresh vegetables in cold weather. Not only are they easy to grow, but they can also be harvested a leaf at a time to add to your winter meals. The main difficulty in planting green leaves in winter is less light and low temperature. If you live in a colder area, you may need to protect your plants from the cold while ensuring they still get enough sunlight. You can grow your greens in pots on a south-facing windowsill. All the greens listed below can be successfully grown in a pot through the winter.

#8 Greens You Can Grow All Winter:
  1. Pea Greens
  2. Mache
  3. Land Cress
  4. Mizuna
  5. Sorrel
  6. Salad Burnet
  7. Agretti
  8. Fennel
#What You’ll Need To Grow Winter Greens:
  1. High-quality potting soil
  2. Containers (these could be planters and pots, or even empty cans and jars)
  3. Seeds
  4. A sunny spot (If you have a south-facing window, then the area near that window will be the warmest spot in your home, so that’s where you’ll want to grow your winter greens.)
#1. Pea Greens

Austrian winter pea greens are easy to grow and are particularly resistant to cold temperatures. In winter, due to less light, the pea plant won’t produce peas but you can still enjoy the pea flavor of shoots and tendrils. The greens taste like sweet sugar snap peas, but have the texture of lettuce. via and

#2. Mache

Mache, known as corn salad, is a tender salad green. It is a cool-weather crop, and in the zone, 9b doesn’t need winter protection. There are two basic varieties – large-seeded and small-seeded. Small-seeded varieties are better suited to cold temperatures. via and

#3. Land Cress

Land Cress is a very hardy perennial. It is a rich leafy green and herb that is a great source of many vitamins and minerals. Land Cress is easy to grow and has delicious, peppery leaves to add to a mixed salad. Land cress is like watercress, similar leaves, and similar flavor, but it grows in the soil like other salad vegetables and not in water. via and

#4. Mizuna

Mizuna is an Asian mustard green well suited for salads or salad mixes such as mesclun. Its best feature is that it grows all by itself through the winter cold. Mizuna can also be grown in pots on a window sill, in trays to use as micro-greens. via and

#5. Sorrel

Sorrel is a cool-season perennial and has a fresh, lemony taste that complements salads and can be made into a creamy soup. It is a robust and persistent sort that grows like a weed. Once established in your garden, sorrel is a hardy plant that requires little care apart from watering and weeding. via and

#6. Salad Burnet

Salad Burnet is an attractive plant that is at home in a border, in the herb garden, or on the windowsill. It is another perennial green, and the leaves have a hint of melon along with cucumber. Salad burnet is easy to grow and makes a useful addition to the herb garden or perennial bed. If your winters are mild, the salad burnet will grow right through the winter. via

#7. Agretti

Agretti is a long, annual herb that looks like chives, also called Saltwort or Toscano. It has a salty and bitter-like taste and is most often used fresh in salads with garlic and olive oil. Agretti has ability to grow in salty soils where other plants wouldn’t be able to grow at all. Image Source: via and

#8. Fennel

‘Grosfruchtiger’ is a non-bulbing type of fennel grown for it’s sweet and tender leaves or greens. Leaves are a nice addition to salads, coleslaw, and dressings.

Even as baby veggies, arugula, radish, and cabbage microgreens have the same flavor as the regular version. You have to taste it to believe it!

Explore delicious and nutritious ways to use your microgreens in everyday recipes.

Watch the video: Fresh Salad in Winter using Microgreens!