Hydrangea care tips, pruning, types

Hydrangea care tips, pruning, types


Among the bushes that bloom in summer, hydrangea occupies a special place. The varied form of inflorescences: spherical, pyramidal or flat, umbellate, colors, duration of flowering, flowering in the sun and in the shade, absence of diseases - all this makes it a garden favorite.

Chameleon flowers

This beauty can simultaneously have pink and blue inflorescences on one bush, and with its white balls of inflorescences, you can illuminate a dark corner of the garden. Some varieties attract butterflies or change the color of the inflorescence during the season from light green to white and then to pink. And the leaves of hydrangea are oaky in the fall, turning red.

Hydrangea looks very good both in landscape and cottage gardens, English type, and also for a Japanese garden, it is also very harmonious.

Hydrangea origin

Very interesting customs, legends and rituals are associated with hydrangea. In the countries of the East, it is believed that hydrangea appeared on the day the Buddha was born (473 BC). In honor of this amazing plant, hydrangea festivals are held in Japan. Also in Japan there is a custom to send a bouquet, which consists of a large-leaved hydrangea in blue or blue, to ask for forgiveness. The hydrangea flower is endowed with the meaning of hope, modesty and sincerity; it is believed that hydrangea wards off misfortune and illness.

Where does the name come from?

Several legends are also associated with the origin of the name "hydrangea". One says that in 1767, while traveling around the world on a sailing ship, the French naturalist Filimber Commerson discovered a previously unknown plant. It was in one of the Asian countries. The beauty of the flowering bush so struck his imagination that the brave explorer named the find in the name of his beloved, Hortense Barreova, who accompanied him on a long and dangerous expedition, wearing a man's outfit. According to another version, the oriental beauty was named hydrangea in honor of Princess Hortense, sister of the Prince of the Holy Roman Empire.

Lepotia or hydrangea

There is also a version that Phillimbert Commerson called a new flower brought from Japan "lepotia" in honor of the first French woman mathematician and astronomer Nicole-Rein Lepot. But the flower was named hydrangea in honor of the princess.

The Latin name "hydrangea" comes from the Greek words "hydro" - "water" and "angelon" - "vessel" and indicates that all types of hydrangea need a lot of moisture for their growth.

Flowers for Mother's Day

The tradition of giving it in pots for Mother's Day, which exists in Europe, also added to its popularity. Thanks to this tradition, breeders have bred many compact varieties, nurseries also mold plants into a die shape, are sold in flower shops and feel very good on the glazed balconies of townspeople. Quality plants with a well-formed root system are kept in pots at least 15 cm in diameter and have at least 3 branches. Such plants bloom profusely and do not require special attention.

Hydrangea bouquets, hardy, stand in water for a long time, remind of pleasant events or simply delight the eye, also decorate festive dinners and wedding bouquets with hydrangea inflorescences.

Hydrangea classification

In nature, hydrangea has about 70-75 species, common in North America, the Himalayas, China, Japan, Korea, the Philippines and the island of Java, of which about 10 grows in the gardens of Ukraine, withstanding 3-4 frost resistance zones.

The most common types are:

  • Large-leaved or garden hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla). The homeland of this species is the eastern and central part of China, Japan. This species blooms most abundantly.

  • Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata). The homeland of this species is the south of Sakhalin, Japan and China.

  • Cutting hydrangea (Hydrangea petiolaris). Under natural conditions, it grows in the south of Sakhalin, the Kuril Islands, Japan and China.
  • Treelike hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens). The species comes from North America.
  • Oaky hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia). The view comes from the south of the United States.
  • Hydrangea sargentiana (Hydrangea sargentiana). The species comes from Western China.

Growing and care

A common requirement for all types of hydrangeas is moist soil rich in humus. A feature of hydrangeas is that they do not tolerate limestone soil and the absence of iron. During the season, hydrangea requires 3-4 times fertilization for rhododendrons and hydrangeas (in April, June, July in early August).

Correct pruning

Large-leaved hydrangea, Sargenta serrata bloom in summer. But flower buds are laid in them on last year's shoots. Therefore, the hydrangea of ​​these species is only cleaned in the spring, cutting out old inflorescences and branches that have dried from frost to the first pair of healthy buds. And only relatively recently (2003-2005) varieties of large-leaved hydrangea appeared on the market, united in a series called Forever & Ever. A distinctive feature of the hydrangea varieties of this series, they bloom almost continuously. The first wave of flowering occurs in early summer on old shoots and in August-September on growths of the current year.

Hydrangea is treelike, paniculate, on the contrary, forms inflorescences at the ends of new shoots. Therefore, the bushes of these types of hydrangeas must be cut to a height of 3-4 buds in order to cause the growth of young shoots with large leaves and a lush inflorescence. Easy cropping will provide more colors, but in a smaller size. In any case, when pruning, all dry, growing inside the bush or too weak branches, as well as inflorescences, are removed. If the branch is thin, then weak shoots will go from it. It is better to cut off such a twig right away, to redirect the forces of the bush to other places.


Aging hydrangea bushes are rejuvenated by strong pruning on perennial wood or "on a stump", although, after such a radical operation, flowering next year may be weak or completely absent.

We cut lightly the bushes in the background of the flower bed. But in the foreground - we have a bush with formed large inflorescences.

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom?

Unfortunately, sometimes gardeners cannot understand why the bush, which bloomed so profusely last summer, is "on strike" this year, the leaves have changed color or turned yellow. The reasons for this may be improper pruning, dead buds from frost and lack of watering in drought. Therefore, it is very important to ensure abundant watering.


In flower beds, hydrangea should be planted together with plants that require similar conditions - acidic soil, transparent shade or sun, moisture-loving.

We have paired the hydrangea with the host. The white-striped hosta variety contrasts with the pink hydrangea balls. We also have cream-colored daylilies and lilies with white balls, panicle hydrangeas "Anabel", flat white inflorescences with white galtonia inflorescences.

Hydrangea is a plant that will decorate any garden, and we hope that you will certainly plant a hydrangea in your country house.


  1. Information on Perennial Plants
  2. Shrub Information

Categories: Perennials Flowering Shrubs Hydrangea

Garden Hydrangea Care Secrets

Even one hydrangea bush can transform your garden. The plant can change color, for which in Japan it was nicknamed the chameleon. If you dilute the water intended for watering with ink, the flowers will turn from white to purple. And if you like bushes with different inflorescences, then you need to plant two bushes in closed containers. Add alum to one of the containers, which can give a blue tint. The plant first came to Europe from Japan. Today it is very popular in Russia as well. Breeders have already bred about 80 species.

Description of hydrangea paniculata

For the care to be effective, you need to know some features of the plant. Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata) is a fast-growing mesophytic shrub from the Hydrangea family. The homeland is the Far East: China, Japan, Korea, the south of Sakhalin. In the form of a tree, it grows up to 10 meters in height.

The root system is superficial, does not lie particularly deep, the bulk of the roots is located approximately in the upper 30 centimeters of the soil. They grow considerably in breadth, often the rhizome border exceeds the diameter of the plant crown. Leaves are ovoid.

A distinctive feature is exceptional frost resistance (without shelter can withstand up to -25 ° C), as well as inflorescences.

Cone-shaped panicles up to 40 centimeters long, similar in shape to chestnut or lilac.

The color of the inflorescences may differ depending on the plant variety. It begins to bloom at 4-5 years of age, from June to October. Honey plant growing rapidly.

Gardening at the end of August. Hello dear friends!

August has come - the sunset of summer. This is perhaps the best month for us summer residents and all gardeners, truck farmers.

In August, we sum up the results of the working summer, collect the harvest and lay it in storage.

You gave your love to the garden, now it's his turn. Our efforts were not in vain, and the berries have already been picked and jam made.

Plums and pears await their turn, and elegant branches of apple trees bent under the weight of beautiful and tasty fruits.

They are waiting for their main holiday, the holiday of harvesting apples - the Apple Savior, which came to us from ancient Russia. This holiday, and even two other Savior (Honey and Nut) and their rituals were dedicated to the pagan gods of the Savior.

Selection of partners for hydrangea paniculata

Due to its flowering time and versatility, panicle hydrangea is a great partner for any garden or arboreal shrub. This plant goes well with early flowering shrubs, including mock-mushrooms, forsythia and lilacs. But this type of hydrangea looks no worse in the company of evergreen junipers, firs, thujas, with magnificent rhododendrons or with spectacular holly, dogwood, snowberry, viburnum, barberries and euonymus.

It is quite easy to find partners from among herbaceous perennials. Shade-tolerant panicle hydrangea is perfectly combined with the stars of decorating nooks: hosts, ferns, aquilegia, astilbe, etc.

Despite the rather shallow root system, panicle hydrangea allows you to plant ground cover plants in near-stem circles, which replace mulching, protect the rhizome from overheating. This shrub is combined, for example, with mossy saxifrage, stonecrop, hoofed grass, and other shade-tolerant perennial ground covers.


1,852 records

1. Iodine for cabbage
Add 40 drops of iodine to a bucket of water. When the head of cabbage begins to form, pour 1 liter of cabbage under the plant.
Show in full.
2. Acceleration of germination
To make the seeds germinate faster, they are soaked in a solution of hydrogen peroxide (4%) for 12 hours (cabbage), and tomato and beetroot seeds - for 24 hours. To disinfect seeds (instead of potassium permanganate), they are treated with 10% hydrogen peroxide for 20 minutes. The ratio of solution and seeds is 1: 1. Then the seeds are washed and dried.

3. Tea for onions
Dry the tea leaves and store for planting onions. Apply under each bulb when planting. Onions are not sick.

Potato yield will be three times greater if potato shoots (10-12 cm) are spud immediately after rain or abundant watering. Then additional trunks are formed, on which tubers will appear after a while.

5. Banana fertilizers
Take banana peels, fill them with water (for example, in a three-liter jar), wait until bubbles form on the surface: water the indoor flowers. Derivative proportions. You can pour water into old crusts by adding new ones.

6. Flowers by yeast
Dissolve 100 g of raw yeast in 10 l. water. Water all plants, including indoor flowers, once a month. The result is great growth.

7. Prevention with garlic
Garlic infusion strengthens plant immunity. Pour 1 liter of garlic with 4-5 cloves. boiling water and let it brew for 20 minutes. Add the resulting solution to water for irrigation, 1 tbsp. for 1 liter of water - for any plants.

8. Salty ground
If the leaves of the beets turn red, it means that there is not enough sodium in the soil. Water the beets with brine. To do this, dilute a glass of coarse salt in 10 liters of water. This is enough to salt the ground.

Secrets of growing zucchini, squash and pumpkin

Zucchini, squash and pumpkins - for sure, you, dear reader, have been growing them for more than one year! However, it is useful to remind even experienced gardeners about some of the nuances. Show in full.

Both pumpkin and vegetable marrow are picky plants: if only there is enough moisture, humus and nutrients in the soil. If the zucchini did not succeed, this can be considered a force majeure - usually, even in the most unfavorable summer, they are there, albeit in small quantities.

1. Give freedom. All pumpkin seeds have many powerful leaves and a well-developed root system that covers a large volume of soil. Therefore, their planting should not be thickened. The feeding area of ​​one plant of a bush squash should be at least 0.8 sq. m, pumpkins - about 1.5 sq. m, depending on the variety.

2. Ventilate the roots. Periodic surface loosening of the soil is required to prevent crust formation. From time to time, the bases of the shoots are poked up. At the same time, weeds are pulled out - not only because they interfere, but also because many of them serve as breeding grounds for pests of pumpkin crops, such as aphids or spider mites.

3. Drink properly. It is dangerous to water all pumpkin crops with cold water - this can lead to the development of root rot. Its temperature at the moment of contact with the bed must be at least 20 ° C.

Especially a lot of water is required for pumpkin seeds during mass flowering and fruiting - from mid-July to late August. The watering rate is 20 liters per plant. Watering is carried out every 5-7 days until noon, so that the plantings dry up by night.

4. Feed regularly. Once every 7-10 days, the plants need to be fed. It is better to apply top dressing in liquid form: 20 g of complete mineral fertilizer per 10 liters of water. Infusions of mullein (1:10) and bird droppings (1:20) are effective. In summer, 3-5 liters of solution per plant is required. If dry, top dressing should be done after watering or rain. You can also apply fast-acting complex fertilizers in dry form with shallow incorporation and subsequent irrigation.

During mass flowering, foliar feeding is very useful. To do this, on a cloudy day, plants are sprayed with a weak solution of urea (1 g / l of water) or liquid universal fertilizer according to the instructions. It is important to moisturize the underside of the leaves well.

5. Eliminate the infection. Try to regularly inspect the plants in order to timely remove diseased leaves: it is recommended to bury them deeply. Severely damaged bushes are destroyed entirely. If white rot or ascochitis appears, the diseased leaves and fruits are removed, and the slightly affected areas of the stem are sprinkled with a mixture of crushed coal and chalk.

6. Conduct pollination. In cool, cloudy weather, it is advisable to pollinate the flowers by hand. To do this, a male flower with dusty stamens is plucked, brought to the female one (it is easy to distinguish it by the presence of a future squash) and the stigmas of the pistils are slightly fanned (they are located right in the middle). Each flower is pollinated 2-3 times within two days. The fact is that the ovary must be ready to receive pollen, and we do not know exactly when this will happen, so we are reinsured. Without pollination, the ovary and young fruits will begin to fall off.

Secrets from professionals

The cultivation of pumpkin seeds on a mulching film or non-woven has proven itself well. In this case, direct sowing of seeds into the ground is possible in the second half of May, depending on the weather. If there is a threat of frost, the plants are individually covered. 2 seeds are sown into the hole, and then the weaker seedling is pulled out.

It happens that zucchini and squash "fatten" - do not tie the fruit. Most often, the reason is insufficient illumination of the flowers. It helps to remove several large leaves of the lower layer from the plants.

If you are going to store zucchini and pumpkins for a long time, be sure to leave 5-7 cm long stalks when harvesting them. Then the infection will not penetrate into the fruit. Fruit intended for storage does not need to be washed.

A variety of pumpkins are grown by all gardeners. They are well stored for a long time without losing their nutritional qualities - sometimes they even wait for a new harvest.

Recently, gardeners have prioritized portioned varieties with fruits weighing up to 1.5 kg, which are usually used whole.

By the way, Pumpkins grow well in partial shade.

In climbing pumpkins, in order to get full-bodied, well-ripened fruits, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the shoots, when 3 ovaries form and begin to fill on the main stem (whip), and on the side shoots - one at a time. To speed up the pouring of the fruit, the lashes must be spread out freely.

Do not forget to put planks under long-growing pumpkins, otherwise in damp weather they may rot from contact with the ground.

The ripeness of the pumpkin can be determined by the shine and density of the bark: unripe fruits have a matte surface and are easily pierced with a toothpick.

This culture does not need advertising! Approximately 2 months after the emergence of seedlings, they begin to regularly supply the crop to our table.

Three fat men. Secrets of growing zucchini, squash and pumpkin
Zucchini. Photo by the author / Valentina Kokoreva

7-10-day-old ovaries with immature seeds are used for food. A typical mistake of vegetable growers is to overexpose the fruits on the plant. They begin to coarse, the taste deteriorates. This is due to the fact that at the beginning of the development of fruits, the nutrients entering them from the leaves go to the formation of pulp, for which we grow zucchini, and later all resources are transferred to the seeds. Therefore, it makes sense to collect zucchini every 3-4 days, when their length does not exceed 15-18 cm. With such an organization of harvesting, the yield will not only not decrease, but, on the contrary, will increase: after all, leaving the fruits for a longer period delays the formation of new ovaries and their pouring. We recommend that city dwellers pay attention to zucchini in supermarkets and pick fruits of the same size, and even smaller for use raw in salads. At the end of the growing season, several large fruits can be grown for storage.

Diseased fruits (ugly shape or discoloration) and dried ovaries are removed as soon as they appear.

Water the zucchini, trying to avoid getting water on the leaves and ovaries.

According to the famous vegetable grower V. Ludilov, the marbling of the zucchini leaves indicates a lack of molybdenum. Plants with such symptoms are fed with molybdenum-acid ammonium - 3 g per 10 l of water.

Roses for the winter care. Preparing roses for winter - 13 important steps

In order for rose bushes to bloom willingly, luxuriantly and brightly in summer, you need to provide the queens of the garden with proper care and a comfortable winter sleep. To properly prepare roses for winter, 13 important and completely simple steps will help you.

By the end of August, stop applying nitrogen fertilizers - they contribute to the growth of green mass, which prevents the roses from going into a dormant state. With the onset of cold weather, switch to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which strengthen the root system and increase the overall vitality of the bush. The rose will stop giving young shoots (burgundy-red) and will strengthen the ripe (green), which are the key to successful wintering.

Hydrangea care in autumn - is it necessary to cover

One of the last autumn activities is preparing for winter - shelter. In warm southern regions, it is often overlooked, especially when growing paniculate and tree hydrangea. These species are distinguished by good frost resistance. However, in the event of freezing, this will not affect either the general appearance or the flowering of the plant. Treelike varieties recover quickly, and panicle hydrangea also grows back. In addition, both varieties bloom on young shoots, which means they will not receive much damage.

It is enough to simply mulch the named species in late autumn. The bushes are spud with a mixture of peat, coniferous litter and humus. Such a blanket will serve as both root protection and fertilizer. And it will acidify the soil, which is only "on hand" hydrangea.

A completely different situation with large-flowered (or garden) hydrangea. She is the most capricious and thermophilic. When the branches freeze, the shrub will not bloom, because it lays the buds on the shoots leaving in winter. Therefore, large-flowered varieties must be covered.

You can start sheltering garden hydrangeas in the first half of October, as soon as the daytime temperature drops to 8 ° C. They are not afraid of damping, but they already suffer from the first frost.

In order to create reliable frost protection:

  1. Cut the leaves at the bottom of the branches.
  2. Gently pull them together, fixing with twine.
  3. Wrap it up with two layers of spandbond, securing it with a rope.
  4. A mesh frame is built that exceeds the height of the bush by at least 15 cm.It should also be slightly wider so that a void forms.
  5. Fallen leaves from the garden are poured into the frame.
  6. Wrap it in foil.

In the same way, oakleaf and serrated hydrangeas are sheltered for the winter.

So, how well a hydrangea will feel and how to bloom depends largely on autumn care. Before wintering, it is important to "water" and "feed" the bush so that it will enter the winter strong. Pruning correctly will help relieve stress and improve flowering quality. And, of course, low-resistant species definitely need shelter.

Watch the video: Easy Hydrangea Pruning - prune all types